ARTICLES ON TEXTILE FIBER, YARN, FABRIC, DYEING AND GARMENTS PRODUCTION

Monday, September 3, 2012

Progressive Bundle System of Apparel garments production

of apparel garments manufacturing could be summarized :

There are so many popular apparel garments production systems, such as

-Progressive bundle system
-Unit Production System
-Modular Garments Production System
-Combined garments Production System

The progressive bundle system (PBS) of apparel garments production gets its name from the bundles of garment parts that are moved sequentially from operation to operation. This bundle system, often referred to as the traditional garments production system, has been widely used by garments manufacturers for several decades and still is today. The AAMA Technical Advisory Committee (1993) reported that 80 percent of the apparel manufacturers used the bundle system of garments production. They also predicted that use of bundle systems for garments production would decrease as firms seek more flexibility in their production systems.

Bundles system of apparel production consist of garment parts needed to complete a specific operation or garment component. For example, an operation bundle for pocket setting might include shirt fronts and pockets that are to be attached with garments. Bundle sizes may range from two to a hundred parts. Some firms operate with a standard bundle size of particular garments, while other firms vary bundle sizes according to cutting orders, fabric shading, size of the pieces in the bundle, and the operation that is to be completed. Some firms use a dozen or multiples of a dozen of garments because their sales are in dozens. Bundles of garments are assembled in the cutting room where cut parts are matched up with corresponding parts and bundle tickets.

Bundles of cut parts are transported to the sewing room in the garments and given to the garments operator scheduled to complete the garments production operation. One garments operator is expected to perform the same operation on all the pieces in the bundle, retie the bundle, process coupon, and set it aside until it is picked up and moved to the next operation of garments production. A progressive bundle system of garments production may require a high volume of work in process cause of the number of units in the bundles and the large buffer of backup that is needed to ensure a continuous work flow for all operators in garments.

The progressive bundle system of garments production may be used with a skill center or line layout depending on the order that bundles are advanced through garments production. Each style may have different processing requirements and thus different routing. Routing identifies the basic operations, sequence of garments production, and the skill centers where those garments operations are to be performed. Some garments operations are common to many styles, and at those operations, work may build up waiting to be processed.

Disadvantages of progressive bundle system of garments production:

The progressive bundle system of garments production is driven by cost efficiency for individual garments operations. Garments operators perform the same operation on a continuing basis, which allows them to increase their speed and productivity. Operators of garments who are compensated by piece rates become extremely efficient at one garments operation and may not be willing to learn a new garments operation because it reduces their efficiency and earnings. Individual operators that work in a progressive bundle system of garments production are independent of other operators and the final product.

Slow processing, absenteeism, and equipment failure may also cause major bottlenecks within the system. Large quantities of work in process are often characteristic of this type of garments production system. This may lead to longer throughput time, poor quality concealed by bundles of garments, large inventory, extra handling, and difficulty in controlling inventory of garments industry.

Advantages progressive bundle system of garments production:

The success of a bundle production system of garments manufacturing may depend on how the production system is set up and used in a plant. This production system may allow better utilization of specialized garments production machines, as output from one special purpose automated garments machine may be able to supply several garments machine operators for the next operation. Small bundles of garments allow faster throughput unless there are bottlenecks and extensive waiting between operations.

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Unit Production System of garments manufacturing

Unit Production System of garments manufacturing:

There are so many popular apparel garments production systems, such as

-Progressive bundle system

-Unit Production System

-Modular Garments Production System

-Combined garments Production System

A unit production system (UPS) of garments production is a type of line layout that uses an overhead transporter system to move garment components from work station to work station for assembly. All the parts for a single garment are advanced through the production line together by means of a hanging carrier that travels along an overhead conveyor. The overhead rail garments production system consists of the main conveyor and accumulating rails for each work station of garments. The overhead conveyor operates much like a railroad track. Carriers are moved along the main conveyor and switched to an accumulating rail at the work station where an operation is to be performed. At the completion of an operation the operator presses a button, and the carrier moves on to the next operation.

Most unit production systems of garments production are linked to a computer control center that routes and tracks production and provides up-to-the-minute data for management decisions. The automatic control of work flow sorts work, balances the line, and reduces claims of favoritism in bundle distribution in garments production. Electronic data collection provides payroll and inventory data, immediate tracking of styles, and costing and performance data for prompt decisions.

Processing begins at a staging area in the sewing room of garments. Cut parts for one unit of a single style are grouped and loaded directly from the staging area to a hanging carrier. Loading is carefully planned so minimal handling is required to deliver garment parts in precisely the order and manner that they will be sewn. When possible, garments operations are completed without removing the parts from the carrier. Varied sizes and types of hanging carriers are available for different types of garments products. Automated garments handling replaces the traditional garments production system of bundling, tying and untying, and manually moving garment parts. Unit production systems eliminate most of the lifting and turning needed to handle bundles and garment parts.

The need for bundle tickets and processing operator coupons is also eliminated when an integrated computer system monitors the work of each garments operator. Individual bar codes or electronic devices are embedded in the carriers and read by a bar code scanner at each workstation and control points in garments factory. Any data that are needed for sorting and processing such as style number, color shade, and lot can be included.

Integrated garments production systems have on-line terminals located at each work station to collect data on each operation. Each garment operator may advance completed units, reroute units that need repair or processing to a different station of garments, and check their efficiencies and earnings. Garments operator may signal for more inventory or call for a supervisor if assistance is needed. The terminals at each station enables central control center to track each unit at any given moment and provide garments management with data to make immediate decisions on routing and scheduling.

Garments operators of the UPS control center can determine sequences of orders and colors to keep operators supplied with work and to minimize change in equipment, operations, and thread colors. A unit garments production system can control multiple routes and simultaneous production of multiple styles without restructuring production lines in garments. The control center may perform routing and automatic balancing of work flow, which reduces bottlenecks and work stoppages. Each operator as well as the control center is able to monitor individual work history. Data can be collected on the amount of time an garments operator works, time spent on each individual unit, number of units completed, the operator who worked on each unit, and the piece rate earned for each unit in garments. The system of garments production will calculate the earnings per hour, per day, and the efficiency rate of each garments operator.

Advantages of Unit Production System of garments production:

Benefits of a unit garments production system depend on how a production system is used and the effectiveness of management. Throughput time in the sewing room can be drastically reduced when compared to the progressive bundle system of garments production because works in process levels are reduced. Garments operator productivity increases. Direct labor costs are reduced because of prepositioned parts in the carriers and elimination of bundle processing. Indirect labor costs may be reduced by elimination of bundle handling and requiring fewer supervisors. Quality is improved because of accountability of all garments operators and immediate visibility of problems that are no longer concealed in bundles for extended periods of time. The central control system in garments production makes it possible to immediately track a quality problem to the operator that completed the operation. Other benefits that are realized are improved attendance and employee turnover and reduced space utilization.

Disadvantages Unit Production System of garments production:

Considerations for installing a UPS include costs of buying equipment, cost of installing, specialized training for the production system, and prevention of downtime. Down time is a potential problem with any of the garments production systems, but the low work in process that is maintained makes UPS especially vulnerable.

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Reasons for Studying Textiles:

A study of textile engineering will show, for example, why certain textile fabrics are more physically durable and therefore more serviceable for specific purposes. It will explain why certain textile fabrics make cool wearing apparel as well as give an impression of coolness when used as decoration. The matter of cleanliness and maintenance must also be estimated before purchasing when that is an important factor.

Complete knowledge of textile engineering will facilitate an intelligent appraisal of standards and brand of apparel garments merchandise and will develop the better ability to distinguish quality in textile fabrics and, in turn, to appreciate the proper uses for the different qualities. A result, both the garments consumer merchant and consumer customer will know how to buy and what to buy, and salespeople will know how to render good service to those consumers who have not had the advantage of a formal course in textile engineering.

Great strides have been made in the textile, garment industry, and have markedly influenced our general economic growth. The prosperity and growth of related industries, such as retail apparel stores, have produced broader employment opportunities. Competition for the textile consumer’s dollar has fostered the creation of new textile fibres with specific qualities to compete with well-established textile fibers. New fiber blends have been created to combine many of these qualities into new types of yarns with new trademarks. There are also new names for textile fabrics made of these new textile fibers and yarns. New finishes have been developed to add new and interesting characteristics to textile fibers, yarn and fabrics.

This welter of creativity and the myriad of trademarks present a challenge to the textile consumer, who is sometimes knowledgeable but frequently confused. Yet one need not be. Without being overly technical, this information can be easily understood and consequently very useful to the textile consumer in business and personal to the textile consumer in business and personal life. All of this information can be adopted for such utilitarian benefits as economy, durability, serviceability and comfort, as well as for such aesthetic values as hand (or feel), texture, design and color of textile and apparel garments products.

In the study of textile engineering, the student’s initial interest will become an absorbing interest when they discover the natural fascinating of textile fabrics and their cultural associations, particularly when factual study is supplemented by actual handling of the textile and apparel materials. The subject will seem worthwhile as they become familiar with illustrative specimens and fabrics and being to handle and earn to compare the raw materials of which fabrics are made as well as the finished consumers goods.

USEFUL PURPOSES OF STUDYING TEXTILE PHYSICS:-
The useful purpose of studying textile physics are:-
1. To understand the detailed structure of fiber, yarn and fabrics
2. To understand the properties of fiber, yarn and fabrics.
3. To understand the behavior of fiber, yarn and fabrics in end condition.
4. To become able to design fiber, yarn and fabric having the required properties to meet the end-use requirements.
5. To identify faults & their causes & nature in fiber, yarn and fabrics.
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Sunday, September 2, 2012

Textile physics; Introduction to textile physics

Textile physics is very important subject for textile engineers or textile related students. I want to share my experience in this site. I am going to discuss about bellow topics. So be with me for more update.

Why study or learn

Why study textiles

Why study textile physics

Textile raw materials

Classification of fibers

Engineering approach to fibers, yarns and fabrics

Importance of textile structures for Engineers

Physical and Mechanical properties of various fibers

Textile properties developed by drawing

Design and other fiber attributes

Essential and desirable properties of textile fibers

Influence of fiber fineness

Miscellaneous properties of fibers

Flexural rigidity of textile fibers

Fiber migration

Measurement of fiber migration

PHYSICS FOR TEXTILE FIBRE, YARN AND FABRIC

Definition of yarn

Factors affecting yarn strength

Parameters affecting physical properties of yarn

Classification of yarn

Classification of yarn based on physical and performance characteristics

Description of yarn

Idealizes structural diagram of some yarns

Continuous filament and staple yarn structure

Fundamental structural features of yarn

Yarn designation

Relative consumption of yarn

Sewing thread

Thread sizes

Thread selection

Importance of twist

Types and direction of twist

Bedding or nesting

Determination of twist

Twist effects

Angle of twist and twist factor

Effects of twist on yarn strength, extensibility and luster

Geometry of twisted yarn

Idealized twisted yarn geometry

Various comments on idealize yarn geometry

Yarn size and twist multiplier

Optimum twist factor

Fiber packing in yarn

Open packing of yarn

Hexagonal close packing of yarn

Real yarn packing

Concentrating and disturbing factors

Observed packing of fibers in real yarn

Twist in relation to yarn bending

Relation among twist angle, twist factor and yarn count

Equation for yarn diameter

Equation for specific volume of yarn

Show that d=4.44 x 10^-6ÖTex / Density

Relation among twist, diameter and twist angle

Estimation of Schwarz’s constant

Yarn luster

Twist contraction and twist retraction

Limit of twist

Contraction factor and retraction factor

Derivation of expression for prediction of filament strain

Limitations of Platt’s low strain equation

Geometry

Cloth geometry

Reasons for studying cloth geometry

Weave and weave notation

Crimp

Warp crimp and weft crimp calculation

Crimp percentage and take up percentage

Distinction between crimp % (C) and take-up %(T)

Relationship between crimp (%) and take-up (%)

Pierce’s Flexible thread model

Importance of crimp on fabric properties

Fabric behavior during tensile testing

Measurement of crimp

Principles of edged crimped yarn

Crimp measuring instrument

Pierce’s model for plain weave

Equation for pick spacing (P2) and end spacing (P1)

Equation for maximum warp yarn displacement (h1) and weft yarn displacement (h2)

Dependence of crimp percentage

Crimp interchange

Equation for crimp interchange

Warp and weft yarn jamming

Equation for warp and weft yarn jamming

Biaxial, tri-axial and balanced structure

Equation for rigid thread model

Why rigid tread model was introduced

Effect of yarn crimp on fabric properties

Concept of similar cloth

Cover factor

Yarn and fabric strength relationship

Handle, drape and shear

Measurement of drape ability

Some tensile properties of fabric

Electrical properties of textiles

Dielectric properties of textiles

Polarization and related effects

Power factor and dissipation factor

Measurement of dielectric properties

Preparation of a test condenser

Measurement of impedance by Scherring’s bridge and resonance method

Factors influencing dielectric properties of textiles

Electrical resistance of textiles

Conductors, semiconductors and insulators

Conduction of electricity in textiles

Influence of dielectric constant on ions

Normal, excited and ionized atom

Electrical resistance of textiles

Measurement of resistances of textiles

Specimen preparation for measuring resistances of textiles

Influence of various factors on resistance of textiles

Static charge

Explanation of static phenomenon

Theories of static charge

Measurement of charge in slivers by Faraday’s cylinder and Medley’s method

Generation of static charge in polymers

Amphoteric behavior of keratin

Piezo and pyro electric charges

Leakage of static charges in air

Leakage of static charges in perfect insulators, moderate insulators, & conductors

Problems of static charges in textile mills

Minimization of static charges in textile mills

The present view about static charges in textiles

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Sunday, August 5, 2012

Introduction to work study and productivity improvement technique in textile and apparel garments Industry

Introduction to work study and productivity improvement technique:

Bangladesh has gone through an unprecedented growth of export oriented apparel garments industry. The growth rate is spectacular if seen from the view point that development in any other sector of industry was sluggish and of basic sector in particular, was negative and has been a source of drain on our resources.
At the starting garments business with a handful of units in 1978-1980, the clothing sub sector now comprises more than 43300 units and readymade apparel garments export value worth USD 6.40 billion.
Production of yarn, knit fabric, woven fabric, clothing and readymade garments items is rather a very complex job under a lot of pressure points. Added to the particular complexity and unique feature of apparel garments production there is the lack of appropriate management techniques.
Apparel garments and textile industry in this country are said to be not competitetive because of a host of reason. Many experts speculate with rational that with the withdrawal of quota protection. Apparel factories may find them in a deep hole unless some breakthrough takes place in the following areas:
1.    Shorting of lead time for producing apparel garments product.
2.    Effecting substantial improvement in productivity and quality of textile and garments items.
3.    Improvement of infrastructure
4.    Existence of due political stability
5.    Improvement of compliance status
Out of the mentioned measure the easiest one is the improvement of productivity and quality so as to be become competitive with the most difficult countries like china India Pakistan Vietnam countries of sub-saharan Africa and NAFTA ets.
A number of measures should be undertaken to substantially improve productivity of a textile or garments industry. The first and foremost measure to be implemented is introduction of work study principles in the apparel garments textile and dyeing industries.
Work study is a proper and specific management technique that introduce and determines standard time required to complete a job and discovers the best method and technique to accomplish the job in the easiest and cheapest way. As manual work abounds in the apparel industries work study is the only way to stipulate a time frame to complete each particular job. Work study is the only way to stipulate a time frame to complete each job. Work study also specifies the right method of doing the job. Thus it helps enhance production productivity to the desired production level.
This also illustrates Work study principles as applied to the apparel, textile dyeing, knitting and woven industries. Besides, the further topics deal with all of the other techniques, concepts, methods, technology necessary for improving productivity of the apparel garments industry. The total work study articles has been designed bilingual so that diverse categories of people like entrepreneurs, managers, officers, and supervisors can make use of those.   It has been designed to be suitable for novices as well. This is a Teach Yourself type guideline. Examples given those articles are taken from real life circumstances. It will be a source of great joy if this effort of the author can in any way, contribute to improving productivity in apparel industries of this countries.
Let’s read the related articles on work-study and productivity improvements.