Cover Factor of Fibre, Yarn and Fabric

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CONCEPT OF SIMILAR CLOTH
Fibre or raw materials of the two cloths may be same but they can differ on other factors, such as:-
i) The yarn count may be different.
ii) The ratio of yarn count in warp and weft may differ.
iii) The warp ratio of yarn spacing may differ.
iv) The average of yarn spacing may differ.
v) The weave design may differ.
vi) The amount of twist in yarn may differ.

If there is similarity in COVER FACTOR of two cloths but they differ in such points as mentioned above then they are called similar cloth.

COVER FACTOR
Cover is the degree of evenness of thread spacing. Good cover gives the effect of a uniform plane surface & it can not be obtained with hard twisted yarn. In case of woven fabric cover factor is a number that indicates the extent to which the area of a fabric is covered by warp and weft threads. For any fabric by introducing suitable numerical constants its evaluation can be made in accordance with any system of counting. It is denoted by k.

Mathematically,

        k = d / p;

where, d₁ = Warp dia; d₂ = Weft dia; P₁ = Warp spacing; P₂ = Weft spacing; k₁ = Warp cover factor, and k ₂ = Weft cover factor.

     

So, k₁ = d₁/P₁    &    k₂ = d₂/P₂

Therefore, Fabric Cover Factor =  k₁ + k₂.

The ratio of yarn diameter to yarn spacing, d/p, is a measure of the relative closeness of the yarns in the warp or weft of a woven fabric. This ratio also expresses the fraction of the area of the cloth covered by the warp or weft yarns. We may therefore call it the fractional cover,  i.e.

                      Fractional cover = d / p.

Substituting Peirce’s estimate of yarn diameter, d = 1/28 √N, we have 

d / p= [1/(28√N) x1/p]

 But 1/p = n, where n = threads/in., so

 d / p= n/(28√N) ……………………………… (6)

Now d/p has a value of 1.0 when the yarns are just touching. Peirce multiplied eq.(6) by 28 to eliminate the numerical constant, 28, and defined the result as the ‘coverfactor’, K.

Cover Factor, K  = n /  √N  ……………………………………………..(7)

Because we have multiplied by 28, cover factor as defined in eq.(7) has a value of 28 when the yarns are just touching. The relative yarn spacing corresponding to various cover factors are shown below:

It is usual to calculate separate cover factors for the warp and the weft. Using the suffices 1 and 2 for warp and weft, we have

      Warp Cover Factor, K₁ = n₁ / √N₁ and

      Weft Cover Factor, K₂ = n₂ / √N₂.

The sum of the warp and weft cover factors is known as cloth cover factor, Kc.  It is customary and more informative, however, to state the warp and weft cover factors separately. Just as twist factor enables us to compare the relative hardness of twist in yarns of different counts, so cover factor enables us to compare the relative closeness of the yarns in different fabrics.

Math related to cover factor

Compare the relative closeness of the warp yarns in the following two plain cloths; (a) 16s cotton; 50 ends/in; and (b) 36s cotton; 84 ends/in.

We have the cover factor for cloth (a), K₁ = 50 / √16   = 12.5.

And for cloth (b) cover factor, K₂ = 84 / √36   = 14.0

So the ends are more closely spaced in cloth (b) than in cloth (a)

MATH:- Calculate the warp and weft cover factors for the following fabric: 60 denier nylon x 48s worsted; 96 x 72.

      60 denier = 5315/60 = 88.57s cotton count.

So, K₁ = 96 / √88.57   = 10.2

       40s worsted = 48 x 560/840 = 32s cotton count.

So, K₂ = 72 / √32   = 12.7

GENERAL FORMULA FOR CALCULATING COVER FACTORS

   Indirect systems                                              direct systems.

      K = cn/ √N                                                    K = cn √N

Where N is the yarn number in the particular system.

System                Value of c                          System          Value of c

Cotton                     1.0                                     Denier        0.01375

Worsted                  1.228                                 Tex             0.04126

Linen lea                 1.667                                 lb/spdl        0.2422

MATH: Calculate the cover factor corresponding to 80 threads/in. of 100 denier. 

From the table constant for the denier system is  0.01375.

Therefore, K  = 0.01375 x 80 x √100  = 11.0

MATH: How many threads/in. of 5 tex nylon are required to give the same cover factor as 90 threads/in. of 2/100s cotton?

Since the equivalent singles count of 2 /100s is √50 s.

Therefore,

                            K  = 90/ √50.

So, K = 12.7  = 0.04126 x n √5

 Therefore  the number of threads required

n=12.7/0.04126 x √5 = 138 threads / in.         

Thus required thread/in is 138 of 5 tex to give the same cover factor as 90 threads/in. of 2/100s cotton.

This problem can also be solved with reference to the formula for calculating cover factor.

     5 tex  = 590.5 / 5  = √118 s cotton count.

As before, K  = 12.7  = n/ √118.

Therefore n = 12.7 x   118   = 138 as before.

Wish You Good Luck..................................
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HOLLOW FIBERS | BI-COMPONENT FIBERS

HOLLOW FIBERS 

Hollow fibers are made of a sheath of fiber material and one or more hollow spaces at the center. These hollows may be formed in a number of different ways. The fiber may be made with a core of one material and a sheath of another, and then the central material is dissolved out. Alternatively, an inert gas may be added to the solution from which the fiber is formed, with the gas bubbles creating a hollow area in the fiber. Other experimental or proprietary techniques have been used to make hollow fibers. One involves spinneret holes with solid cores around which the polymer flows. 

Hollow fibers provide greater bulk with less weight. They are therefore, often used to make insulated clothing. For absorbent fibers such as rayon, hollow fibers provide increased absorbency. Some have been put to such specialized uses as filters or as carriers for carbon particles in safety clothing for persons who come into contact with toxic fumes. The carbon serves to absorb the fumes Bi-component Fibers 

As the technology for producing manufactured fibers has become more highly developed, manufacturers have turned to increasingly sophisticated techniques for creating new fibers. Not only are new generic fibers being created but also different polymers or variants of the same polymer can be combined into a single fiber to take advantage of the special characteristics of each polymer. Such fibers are known as bi-component fibers. 

The American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) defines a bi-component fiber as “a fiber consisting of two polymers which are chemically different, physically different, or both. Bicomponent fibers can be made from two variants of the same generic fiber (for example, two types of nylon, two types of acrylic) or from two generically different fibers (for example, nylon and polyester or nylon and spandex). The latter are called bi-component bi-generic fibers. 

Components in bi-component fibers may be arranged either side by side or as a sheath core. In making a side-by-side bicomponent fiber, the process requires that the different polymers be fed to the spinneret together so that they exit from the spinneret opening, side by side. Sheath-core bi-component fibers require that one component be completely surrounded by the other, so that the polymer is generally fed into the spinneret as shown in Figure. Variation in the shape of the orifice that contains the inner core can produce fibers with different behavioral characteristics. 

BI-COMPONENT FIBERS 

As the technology for producing manufactured fibers has become more highly developed, manufacturers have turned to increasingly sophisticated techniques for creating new fibers. Not only are new generic fibers being created but also different polymers or variants of the same polymer can be combined into a single fiber to take advantage of the special characteristics of each polymer. Such fibers are known as bi-component fibers. The American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) defines a bi-component fiber as “a fiber consisting of two polymers which are chemically different, physically different, or both. Bi-component fibers can be made from two variants of the same generic fiber (for example, two types of nylon, two types of acrylic) or from two generically different fibers (for example, nylon and polyester or nylon and spandex). The latter are called bi-component bi-generic fibers. 

Bi-component fibre

Components in bi-component fibers may be arranged either side by side or as a sheath core. In making a side-by-side bi-component fiber, the process requires that the different polymers be fed to the spinneret together so that they exit from the spinneret opening, side by side. Sheath-core bi-component fibers require that one component be completely surrounded by the other, so that the polymer is generally fed into the spinneret as shown in Figure. Variation in the shape of the orifice that contains the inner core can produce fibers with different behavioral characteristics.

Fibre Blends; Properties of fiber Blended Yarns

Fibre Blends 

Fibre Blending is the process of mixing fibers together. As noted earlier, it can take place at any of several points during the preparation of a yarn. The purposes of blending are (1) the thorough intermixing of fibers and/or (2) combining fibers with different properties to produce yarns with characteristics that cannot be obtained by using one type of fiber alone. Self blending of bales of the same fiber is done routinely in processing natural fibers because the fibers may vary from bale to bale. In this type of blending, the mixing of as many bales as possible is done early in the processes preparatory to spinning so that the subsequent steps can help to mix the fiber still more completely. For the same reasons, even when two or more different fiber types are combined, blending is done as early as possible. Carding helps to break up fiber clusters and intermix fibers more thoroughly. However, if the fibers being blended require different techniques for opening, cleaning, and carding, as with polyester and cotton, then slivers can be blended. For blended yarns of different fibers, the blend level is the percentage by weight of each fiber. Blending is not limited to staple-length fibers. Filament fibers of different generic types can be combined into a single yarn. This can be done either by extruding these fibers side by side, during drawing, or during texturing. As described earlier, a blended yarn can be core spun with one fiber at the center and a different fiber as the covering or be wrapped with one fiber making up the central section and another the wrapping yarn. As yarn spinning and texturing technologies grow more sophisticated, we expand the possibilities of combining several different fibers into one yarn. Multiple-input texturing machines can produce specialty yarn blends. 

It should be noted that fabrics woven from two or more yarns each made of different fibers are not considered blends. These fabrics are, instead called combination fabrics. They do not behave in the same way as those fabrics in which, the fibers are more intimately blended and may require special care procedures. Regrettably, the Textile Fibers Products Identification Act (TFPIA) labeling requirements do not distinguish between blended fabrics and combination fabrics when fiber percentage contents of fabrics are given. 

Properties of Blended Yarns 

Fibers with different characteristics, blended into a yarn, can each contribute desirable properties to the final textile material. The ultimate performance is an average of the properties of the component fibers. For example, a fabric of 50 percent cotton and 50 percent polyester would have an absorbency intermediate between that of cotton or polyester. In some cases, however, the observed fabric property is not determined simply by the relative amounts of each fiber in the blend. In blends of nylon with cotton, the tenacity of the blended yarn initially decreases with increasing amounts of nylon because of differences in the breaking elongation of the two fibers. At the breaking elongation of the cotton fibers, the nylon fibers are not assuming their share of the stress, leaving the cotton to bear the load. 

The stage at which blending occurs also affects the properties of the fabrics. In general, the more intimate the mixing of fibers in the blends, the better the resulting properties. Yarns blended at the fiber stage exhibit a more effective averaging of properties than ply-blended yarns. Even though considerable study and evaluation have been made of optimum fiber proportions required to achieve desired results in blends, no certain conclusions have been reached. It is clear that extremely small proportions of fibers have no appreciable influence on performance, although they may have some effect on appearance.

Manufactured Fibres or Textile Fiber manufacturing

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The producer of natural fibres and the producer of manufactured fibres are engaged in two very different businesses. The farmer who raises cotton, the rancher who herds sheep or the grower of silkworms is trying to produce a maximum quantity of fibre from animal or vegetable sources. The grower may attempt to improve the quality of the seeds or breeding stock but is limited in production by natural factors. If the demand for the product increases or decreases, the grower cannot, like the manufactured fibre producer, simply increase or decrease the short-term supply of fibre.

Manufactured Fibres

The term-manufactured fibre describes a fibre produced commercially through regeneration from natural materials or synthesized from chemicals. Trade associations in the manufactured fibres industry may be industry wide or specific to particular fibres. The American Fibre Manufacturers Association, Inc. (AFMA) is the trade organization for the manufactured fibres industry, conducting many of the same kinds of promotional activities as described for the natural fibres associations.

AFMA always uses generic fibre names-such as polyester, nylon, rayon, and so on-in printed materials, while its individual fibre producing members concentrate on their trademarked fibre names, such as DuPont’s Dacron@ (polyester) or Wellman’s Fortrel@ (polyester). Producers of particular fibres may also join together to form fibre-specific trade associations. The Acrylic Council, the Polyester Council, and the American Polyolefin Association are examples of fibre-focused trade associations.

Production in the manufactured fibres industry differs from the production of natural fibres in a number of ways. While the manufactured fibres industry must depend on available supplies of the raw materials from which fibres are made, this industry is not dependent on natural forces that regulate the supply of fibre. A great many manufactured fibres are made from materials derived from petroleum, and therefore supplies and costs of raw materials may be affected by changes in the price of oil. Manufacturers can regulate production according to supply and demand. Manufacturers can also help to create demand for increased quantities of fibre products through advertising and other publicity.

Many manufactured fibre producers and firms are, or were originally, chemical companies. The fibre manufacturer generally sells the fibres produced to a firm that will make yarns and/or fabrics. These fibres may be sold as unbranded products or commodities. When fibres are sold in this way, the purchaser has no obligation to the fibre manufacturer to produce a product of any specific quality. Products must meet no minimum standards. In short, the buyers can do whatever they wish with the fibres they have purchased. Other fibres may be sold as trademarked fibres. The manufacturer owns the trademark, which is denoted by placing either the symbol @ or TM after the trademarked name. Trademarked names are always capitalized-for example, Micrell@ polyester. The owner of a trademark can bring court action to prevent unauthorized use of the trademark.

When the fibre manufacturer’s trademarked name is carried by the finished product, the fibre manufacturer has some control over the quality of the fabric, although it is still possible that a poorly made garment could be constructed from the fabric. One advantage to the fabric and garment manufacturers of buying a trademarked fibre is that they can capitalize on the publicity and promotional materials distributed by the fibre manufacturer. Licensed trademarked fibres are sold only to those manufacturers whose fabrics meet the standards established by the fibre manufacturer. Standards may be set in regard to the construction of fabrics, the manufacture of apparel or other products, and, in blends or combinations of two or more fibres, the appropriate proportion of fibres to be combined. As an alternative to trade marking, some fibre companies assign certification mark names to yarns or fabrics made from their fibres. Such designations require that the items identified with the certification mark meet criteria established by the fibre manufacturer.

Not only do the fabric and garment manufacturers benefit from customer familiarity with the brand name of the fibre, but the fibre manufacturer often shares the costs of advertising or mounts intensive publicity campaigns to promote the fabric, the final product, and even retail outlets where the products are sold.

The interest of manufactured fibre producers in their products does not end when the fibre is sold. Because techniques for spinning and fabricating manufactured fibres may not be uniform for all fibres, the fibre producer provides technical assistance to the fabric manufacturer. Technical bulletins are published that recommend the most effective ways of processing fibres. Consultants from the fibre companies provide information about new developments in textile machinery and finishing. Research and development in fibre-producing companies is often focused on more effective ways of handling manufactured fibres during fabrication.

Fibre producers assist manufacturers of fabrics, garments, or other products to locate sources of yarns and fabrics. The marketing department of a fibre-producing company also maintains a library of fabrics that can be used by manufacturers and their designers.

A wide variety of other services is offered to the direct customers of the fibre companies and to the general public. Exhibits of current products are presented, often at trade and professional meetings. Educational materials for schools, retailers, and consumers are prepared and distributed. Retail stores may be assisted in promoting trademarked products through fashion shows, publicity materials, or cooperative advertising in which the fibre producer pays some part of the advertising costs. Fashion consultants may be available to assist the designers of fabrics, clothes, and furnishings.

Many of these activities are part of an organized advertising and public relations program. In addition to the services offered that result indirectly in publicity and goodwill for the company, direct advertising is also utilized. Besides advertising cooperatively with manufactures of retail products and retail stores, fibre companies also advertise in publications ranging from those for the trade to general magazines. Research and development (often abbreviated as R & D) is an important function in most large textile fibre companies.

Researchers are constantly looking for new fibres, fibre modifications, and improvements in processing at all steps of manufacture. The whole synthetic fibres industry might be said to have grown out of the research and development program at the chemical company Dupont, for it was in this program that W. H. Caruthers first synthesized nylon.

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