Process sequence of cutting section in apparel garments industry

Process sequence of cutting section in apparel garments industry

Store ↓ Fabric Fault Checking ↓ Relaxation ↓ Shade Checking ↓ Prepare the fabric in the fabric spreading m/c ↓ Spreading ↓ Marker attachment ↓ Cutting ↓ Numbering ↓ Bundling ↓ Panel Check (QC) ↓
Fault	←     ↔    →				OK
↓			↓ ↓ ↓
Replace Cut
↓
→     →      ←    ← ↓
Solid		←     ↔    →		Not Solid
↓ ↓ ↓			↓
			Print / Embroidery
			↓
→     →      ←    ← ↓
Checking & Counting (QC)
↓
Sewing

Store of Garments:

Garments store is the sector where all the raw material are stored which are need to make a garments. Raw fabric for cutting, which will be processed to garments by cutting, sewing, is kept here until the process starts. This fabric comes from the main factory after knitting and dyeing. Different types of fabrics like Single Jersey, Lycra, fleece, rib etc. There are three sections, Fabric Store, Garments Store, and General Store. In Fabric store all the fabric is being stored. In Garment store, all the items without fabrics that are needed to produce garment is stored. Finally, in General store, all the related things that is needed to run a factory is stored.

In fabric store, normally 250-300 ton fabric comes to store in each day. Now, around 37 ton fabrics are stored. Few days ago, this number was around 100 ton. Cutting department get fabrics from here. There is a Fabrics Requisition sheet where all the information is being written about the fabrics movement from store to cutting section.

Fabric Fault Check out before cutting:

This quality control section is very important before garments cutting. The fabric is roughly checked from dyeing section and then those are sending to garments factory for producing complete garments. Usually very small amount of fault comes from dyeing. Small hole and pin hole are the main fault get in cutting quality check. But a single pin hole in single part of garment could be the cause of rejection of garments and it is a major defect. That’s why a thoroughly checking is done before cutting. Here Fabrics are being checked before going to relaxation section of cutting. Required number of table is preserved for fault checking. Fabric fault like hole, yarn miss, dart etc are being checked. Normally 10% fabric is checked. There are two popular fabric fault checking system is exist. Ten point system and four point system. Usually four point system is very much popular for knitted fabric and ten point system is popular for woven fabric.

Relaxation of fabric for cutting

Normally Fabric came in a roll form. Before sending the fabric for cutting, it is necessary to relax the fabric. Usually fabric comes as the form of role or gathered from textile dyeing section. So the dimensional stability of fabric is relatively lower and it contain crease mark. The fabric is kept in an open place for around 12-24 hours according to fabrics type and buyer requirements. Relaxation time for lycra fabric and pique fabric is around 3 days and minimum 24 hours. For Single Jersey and Fleece fabric, standard relaxation time is 24 hours and minimum time is 12 hours. There are racks to store the fabrics for relaxation.

Shade Checking before cutting:

Shade checking is most important part in cutting section. Before spreading the fabric on the cutting table, relaxed fabric is rechecked for shade variation in time of relaxation. If the fabric is ok then it goes for cutting. If not, then that part of fabric is rejected and transferred for further reprocessing. 

Prepare the fabric in the fabric spreading m/c

The fabric is being gathered in the machine in a small lay form that will be easy to spread the fabric in the fabric cutting table. At least two men are needed to do the job.

Spreading of fabric:

Fabric is spread on the table by spreader machine. One man control the machine and around 6-10 people to adjust the fabric to its specific dimension. Number of layer varies according to the marker length and production needed. More the layer length will be, the more will be the production rate.

Marker attachment

After laying down the specific number of fabric on the cutting table the marker paper is over laid on the fabric. Then the marker paper is attached to the fabric  by some adhesive. 

Cutting

There are cutting man to cut the laid fabrics according to the marker sketch. Normally two men do this job. Generally 10-15 number of laid fabric is being cut.

Numbering

The fabric peaces are being numbered by a labeling machine to identify these peaces in future.

Bundling

All the numbered fabric is then bundled together and send it for checking.

Panel Check (QC)

Here, the fabric is being checked for any fault. There is a sticker with all the information that is needed to identify this bundle in future for further processing like, Date, Buyer, cutting no., size, bundle no, quantity, serial no., color, lot no. In checking normally Cutting no., size, serial no. are checked.

After Panel Check

If there is a fault in the fabric then it send for further processing. If there is some spot in the fabric then it will be washed and if there is hole or some thing that needed to be replaced then is send for replace cutting.

If the garment will be solid then it goes for sewing. But if some fabric peaces needed to be printed or embroidery then it goes for it. After returning from printing or embroidery the fabric is ready for sewing.  

Checking & Counting (QC)

After doing, the entire job in cutting section the fabric is checked and counted. Then, all these peaces go for sewing. Responsible people from sewing department receive the fabric from cutting department.

Sewing

Now, the peaces of fabrics are joined together to make the final product.

STATIONARY CUTTERS FOR FABRIC LAY CUTTING IN GARMENTS FACTORY

Stationary cutter of fabric cutting is important device of garments factory. Stationary cutter means the cutter is fixed and the spreading table is movable. This cutting system is time consuming and costly too. High power supply system is required for this cutting system.

Objectives of stationary cutter:
 -Understanding of the cutting process
 -Cutting equipments and their operations

Stationary cutters are those cutting machines that have blades or cutting devices that remain in a fixed position. The two basic types of stationary cutters are (i) band knives and (ii) die cutters. Operators must move the fabric or lay up to the machine and engage the cutting action.

BAND KNIVES:
The band knife cutting machine contains a narrow, sharpened, endless steel band moving vertically through the layers of fabric. The fabric layers are guided by hand against the blade. An air cushion will often be provided below the fabric layers to make it easier to guide the material. The plies may be stapled together to prevent slippage. Band knives are used for precision cutting to a depth of up to 300mm. Corners, tight curves and pointed incisions are cut precisely.

Band knives have fine blades that rotate through a slot in the cutting table while cutting. The operator positions, controls, and guides the fabric block around the knife. A band knife can be used to make only lateral cuts into a spread, as the operator must propel the fabric into the rotating blade. Band knives blades are finer and narrower than reciprocating blades, which make it easier to manipulate tight curves and intricate patterns. Band knives are more accurate than vertical knives when used to cut small blocks or shave small amounts off precut blocks. Band knives are used to trim precut blocks of small or mid size pieces. They would not be used for cutting a whole spread or large pieces because of having to maneuver the block around the blade.

DIE CUTTING:
Die cutting is the most accurate means of cutting because each and every piece is cut to the exact same shape. Dies are reshaped metal outlines with one cutting edge. Die cutting involves use of a die to cut out a specific garment part or trim from a single piece or small block of fabric. The die-cutting operation involves placement of the fabric, positioning the die on the fabric, and engaging the machine to press the die into the fabric.

A die cutting machine is provided with prefabricated cutting tools, (cutting dies) having the exact shape of the garment pieces. Die cutters are used mainly for leather, coated and laminated materials and in areas where the same patterns are used over a long period, e.g., production of working clothes. The dies are expensive to make. Dies are frequently used to cut small pieces that require high accuracy, such as collars, pocket flaps, and appliqués. Leather goods are frequently die cut. Gloves with their fine detail are usually die cut as are shoes that require consistency of parts.

SERVO CUTTERS:
The bridge between computer-controlled and manual cutting is the servo-cutting system. This type of system has an overhead servo motor with adjustable speed and a suspension system that supports the knife perpendicular to the cutting table. This reduces problems with tilting the blade and in accurate cutting. The knife is mounted on a swivel arm, which is extended above the cutting table. It also has a small base plate and narrow blade guide for easier maneuvering by the operator. It can make tighter turns with less distortion in the lay. It combines vertical cutting and band knife cutting into one machine. This type of system enables the operator to cut deeper spreads with greater accuracy than with a freestanding straight knife and for a lesser investment than computerized cutting.

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