Fabric Shrinkage Control by Textile Finishing

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Fabric finishing is most effective procedure to maintain the fabric property. Most of the fabric property could be maintained by textile finishing. There are different types of textile finishing. Such as Mechanical finishing, Chemical finishing or other special finishing. 

Fabric shrinkage is one of most important fabric property. Shrinkage property is depending upon the fibre property. It effects in finished garments shape. We know that every style of garments have particular size. The most popular sizes are Small(S), Medium(M), Large(L), Extra Large(XL) etc. size of particular garment indicate by pattern grading. Most probably 1cm to 2 cm varies from one size to another size. Due to shrinkage the size of the garment could be change abnormally. For example Length of a garments increase but chest does not change. So it will be subjected as size mistake but the size was ok during fabric cutting. That’s why shrinkage property of fabric must be controlled by particular finishing method before cutting the fabric. 

A reduction in the length or width of a fiber, yarn, or fabric is known as shrinkage. If fabrics shrink after they have been made into garments or household items, they may decrease in size to such an extent that the item is no longer serviceable. For example, a garment with a 25-inch waist size will decrease by 11\4 inches if it shrinks 5 percent. Growth occurs when a fabric increases in dimension. Some fibers such as wool, cotton, and rayon swell more in water than do others. Fabrics made from these fibers are less dimensionally stable than fabrics made from fibers with lower moisture absorbance. Wetting a fabric causes the tension that has been applied during its manufacture to be relaxed, so that fabrics generally shrink after the first and subsequent launderings. This type of shrinkage is known as relaxation shrinkage. It occurs because the moisture within the fibers allows them to return to the dimensions they occupied before they were stretched during processing. The amount of relaxation shrinkage depends on the amount of stretching the fibers underwent during manufacturing. 

Wool fibre and rayon fibre, which are more extensible, will stretch more and therefore have greater potential for relaxation. Successive heating and drying cycles may produce progressive shrinkage, where the fabric continues to shrink. Woven fabrics generally shrink more in the warp than in the filling direction because the warp yarns are under greater tension during weaving. When the fabric is later subjected to moisture, or heat in the case of thermoplastic fibers, the stresses within the fibers are relieved, and the fabric relaxes. Fibers that are moisture-absorbent absorb a significant amount of water and swell. Accordingly, the yarn diameter increases, and the yarns in each direction must move closer together to accommodate the yarns in the opposite direction. This is a less strained position for the yarns and results in a permanent increase in crimp, especially in warp yarns. 

Knit goods tend to stretch more during manufacture than woven goods, and therefore knit goods are likely to shrink and change shape even more than woven goods. Procedures and solvents used in commercial dry cleaning, as a rule, do not permit fabrics to relax, as washing does, so that items that are dry cleaned may not shrink as readily. Shrinkage in dry cleaning generally results from the high moisture content in the solvent or from steaming the fabric during pressing.

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TEXTILE FINISHING; CONVENTIONAL AND SPECIAL FINISHES FOR TEXTILE FABRICS AND YARNS

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Textile or Fabric Finishing

The textile finishing is an important process for production of finished textile fabrics and garments. Textile finishing usually includes treatments such as scouring finishing, bleaching finishing, dyeing and/or printing, the final mechanical finishing or chemical finishing operations of textiles, that during this stage are carried out on textile products (staple, sliver or top, yarns or filaments, woven or knitted fabrics to enhance their basic characteristics like dye penetration, printability, wettability, colour, hand, and appearance of textile material.

By special textile finishing, we also mean all the processing operations that, though included in the so called finishing stage, are generally applied to the textile fabrics to improve their appearance, hand and properties, at times in accordance with their field of application.

The textile finishing stage plays a fundamental role in the excellency of the commercial results of textiles, which strictly depend on market requirements that are becoming increasingly stringent and unpredictable, permitting very short response times for textile manufacturers. The latest finishing machines on the market used for textile finishing operations generally offer multi-purpose applications; the flexibility and versatility features of these finishing machines are uninterruptedly evolving to grant excellent consistency of the results in finishing process.

The making of a marketable consumer-usable textile fabric is not completed after fabric formation, dyeing, or printing. Fabrics usually still need to undergo and additional processing know as textile finishing, which is the final processing before the fabric is cut into apparel or made into articles such as towels, curtains, or draperies. Finishing is what makes fabrics more suitable for their intended end use. Final inspection to ascertain fabric quality is performed at the completion of finishing. There are many types of finishes; some make fabrics softer after finishing, some stiffer after finishing, some water-repellent after finishing, and some shrink-resistant after finishing. Some fabrics may have two or more finishing treatments at a time in the finishing machine. Certain finishes are so temporary that they completely lose their effectiveness after one laundering. Therefore, understanding textile finishes and the properties they impart, the fibers and fabrics to which they may be applied, and their limitations and shortcomings is important to an overall understanding of textiles.

Most textiles finishing processing are performed in the same plants as dyeing or printing. Most dyers and printers are also finishers, with finishing being considered a separate but integrated department of the dyeing or printing organization.

Classification of textile Finishes and finishing process:

Textile finishing operations can be carried out by means of discontinuous, continuous and semi continuous systems according to the finishing machine.

Discontinuous or batch-type systems of finishing:

A single or individual finishing machine is used to complete all the finishing stages.After taking all types of preparation the finishing machine is loaded with the textile material. Predetermined cycles are carry out according to the finishing process. After completing the process the machine is unload and finally wash it thoroughly before starting a new cycle. This process is suitable for small batch and the working procedures are most easy and flexible. for example, it is easy to a carry out a bleaching process on a single machine, and then a scouring one followed by a dyeing process. The discontinuous process is labour-intensive for the production of large production because it necessary more man power to handle and transport the textile material; it is also a time oriented process and results that can change  from one lot to another.

Continuous systems of finishing: 

 A series of machines are required for continuous finishing system. Each machine carries out always and solely the same process.According to production requirements each finishing machine are arranged. Initial cost of this system is higher and the machine set up very much complex.but once the system has developed according to proper plane, it requires a smaller manpower and grants excellent repeat ability and high production rates; So it is stat that the continuous system is beneficial for producing large batch of textile material with the highest cost-efficiency and productivity.

Semi-continuous systems of finishing: 

Semi continuous finishing system is modern and result oriented method. In this system the continuous finishing machine and discontinuous finishing machines are used for better performance.For explain the procedure it is said that a continuous finishing machine is used to wet the textile material. The machine could be continuous pad batch machine, The small and medium lots are suitable for these mixed systems of finishing. In that process the quality of the product is higher but the cost is medium but more manpower is required.

Textile finishes and finishing are classified in several ways, the most common classifications being aesthetic finishes, which modify the appearance and/or hand or drape of fabrics, and functional finishes, which improve the performance properties of fabrics. The textile finishes discussed in this articles are presented in these two categories.

Finishes are also classified as chemical finishes and mechanical finishes. Those finishing are also called wet finishing and dry finishing, respectively. Wet finishes are normally used to textile material by padding, followed by drying or curing.Mechanical finishing are special types of process used to change change the  appearance by changing the surface the fabric or any textile material. It related to specific physical treatment . Finishes are also categorized by their degree of permanence. These finishes are called durable,semi durable temporary and permanent finish. Permanent finishes do not change or alter throughout the life of a textile material. usually involve the change in structure of fibre structure by special chemicals.

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STUDY ON THE BARRIERS OF HIGHER PRODUCTION AND ITS REMEDIES IN THE GERMENTS INDUSTRY

School:                               Science and Engineering

Course of Studies:            B.Sc. in Textile Engineering

Supervising Teacher    

Professor Dr. Md. Abul Kalam Azad

Guest Faculty,  Professor.

Department of Textile engineering,

Southeast University.

ABSTRACT

Barriers of production are the major issue in apparel garmentmanufacturing which determines the effectiveness of total garments system and run the process towards the up to mark standard. The main objective of this project is to determine the suitable tools can be used specially for textile garments manufacturing, find out the problems restricting the production, generating proper solution and implement them in a proper way. In this study all data included of production capacity both for past state and present state which shows the comparative improvement of before implementation and after implementation of these tools. Methodology of this project was to find out the barriers, non productive time and determine the best possible way to eliminate major problems which are responsible for productivity loss in apparel garments sector.

The phase-out of the quota is likely to have particular significance for the export of Bangladesh apparels to the US market. MFA’s impacts are not much related to a question of our $2 billion exports to the USA; or the $5 billion worth of exports made by Bangladesh globally. Rather, it is a question of how Bangladesh’s entire economy will be affected by the issue of quota phase out. Readymade garment exports constitute about 85% of Bangladesh’s annual export and provide direct employment to 1.5 million females and indirectly an additional 8 to 10 million people. The global clothing trade is evolving on a continuous basis and that the phase out of quota restrictions and forming of trade blocs has become a reality. Moreover Bangladesh is convulsed by fierce class struggles, centered on the country’s garment industry. Many tens of thousands of workers have gone on strike, blocked roads, attacked factories and other buildings, demonstrated, fought the police and rioted in the streets. Every day comes news of fresh strikes in a variety of industries —mainly the ready-made garment (RMG) sector, but also mill workers, river transport workers, rail workers, journalists, lecturers and teachers. A massive army and police presence around garment factories, in some cases completely blockading and creating check points for entry to Export ProcessingZones, temporarily calmed things; but strikes continued to take place at numerous factories, leading to solidarity strikes from nearby workplaces and semi- spontaneous demonstrations.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

Industrial Attachment Course is an academic function of the Textile Engineering Department of Southeast University.

At first we desire to express our deepest sense of gratitude of almighty Allah for giving us knowledge, energy and patience for completing the project work successfully.

A number of people have made significant contributions in preparing this report. Their insights, advice and suggestions helped us a lot.

We wish to express our deepest gratitude to Syed Fakhrul Hasan, Professor & Chairman of Textile Engineering Department, SEU, for his continuous guidance, invaluable & constructive comments and endless encouragement throughout the research work and the preparation of this project. With profound regard we gratefully acknowledge our respected  teacher Professor Dr. Md. Abul Kalam Azad  his generous help and day to day suggestion during preparation of the project. Guest Faculty, Department of Textile Engineering, SEU. He has enriched us with necessary ideas and concepts for incessant improvement of the report.

We would like to express our sincere gratitude to Mr. Salahuddin Ahmed, AGM(IE),  for providing us all necessary information & guide line. His valuable opinion has enriched our knowledge to carry out the training and portray the information in a logical sequence

We like to give thanks especially to our friends and many individuals, for their enthusiastic encouragements and helps during the preparation of this report us by sharing ideas regarding this topic.

We would like to thank and acknowledge to all Operators, Workers, Production Officers, Production managers, Work study Officers, IT Officers, AGM of all sections, Sardagonj, Kashimpur, Gazipur, Bangladesh.

Finally, thanks for those who helped us directly and indirectly during the different stages of the present project work.

 

Contents

2.1. Factors of higher production:

2.2. Problems Regarding With RMG

2.3. Safety Problems

2.4. External and Internal Barriers of Higher Production

2.4.1. Economical problems:

2.4.1.1. Community problems:

2.4.1.2. Political problems:

2.4.1.2.1. Hartal :

2.4.1.2.2. Strike :

2.4.1.2.3. Internal politics :

 2.4.1.3. Transportation problem:

2.4.1.3.1. Internal transportation:

2.4.1.3.2. External transportation:

2.4.1.4. Drudge Problem:

2.5. Inventory Section

2.6. Cutting section

2.6.1 Remedies :

2.7. Production section :

2.8. Finishing section :

3.1. Tools & Equipments to be used for doing this work:

3.2. Procedure/Method for doing this job:

3.3. Flow chart of Garments manufacturing:

3.4. Barriers of each section and its remedies:

3.4.1. Sample section:

3.4.2. Cutting section:

3.4.2.1. Worker’s absenteeism of Spreading:

3.4.2.2. Delay fabric receiving:

3.4.2.3. Power Problem

3.4.2.4. Type of marker

3.5. Other common barriers of cutting section

3.6. Suggestion for cutting floor to DBL group

3.7. Future invention

3.8.  Sewing section:

3.8.1.  Different types of sewing defects:

3.8.2. Reason of needle breakage:

3.8.3.  Sewing section problems

3.9. Finishing section:

3.10. Social &Environmental Information in DBL Group:

3.10.1. Scope of employment opportunity:

3.10.2.  Internship Program:

3.10.3. Environmental pollution control:

 3.10.4.  Noise, dust pollution control and air emission:

3.10.5.  Health, Safety and hygiene awareness:

3.11.  Policy Regime of Government

3.12. Infrastructural Impediments

3.13.  Labor Productivity

3.14.  Supportive Government Policy

3.15.  Limitations of the Report

4.1. CONCLUSION

4.2. RECOMMENDATION FOR THE COMPANY

8.4.3.3 Shrinkage data    Error

8.4.4      Experiment No: 01.

8.4.5      Experimental data: 02

9.            Steam relax dryer description:

9.1.1      Features:

9.1.2      Technical specifications:

9.1.3      High Efficiency Blower Device of Drying:               

9.1.4      Over feeding area:

9.1.5      Structure of Nozzle:

9.1.6      Air contorl & speed system:

 9.1.7     Oil Heating Media:          

9.1.8      Extra Accessories:           

10.          Data from steam dryer:

10.1        Experiment No: 01         

10.2        Experiment No: 02

11.          Discussion:

12.          Conclusion:

List of table:

List of figure

Referrence:

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