Showing posts with label Garments. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Garments. Show all posts

Monday, September 3, 2012

Modular Garments Production System

Modular Garments Production System 
There are so many popular apparel garments production systems, such as


-Progressive bundle system
-Unit Production System
-Modular Garments Production System
-Combined garments Production System
A modular garments production system is a contained, manageable work unit that includes an empowered work team, equipment, and work to be executed. Modules frequently operate as minifactories with teams responsible for group goals and self-management. The number of teams in a plant varies with the size and needs of the firm and product line in garments. Teams can have a niche function as long as there are orders for that type of garments product, but the success of this type of garments operation is in the flexibility of being able to produce a wide variety of products in small quantities in garments.

Many different names are currently used to identify modular garments production systems, including modular garments manufacturing, cellular garments manufacturing units, compact work teams, flexible work groups, self-directed work teams, and Toyota Sewing System (TSS) in garments. The basic premise is similar among these production systems, although the organization and implementation may vary.

The number of employees on a team, usually 4 to 15, varies with the product mix. A general rule of thumb is to determine the average number of operations required for a style being produced and divide by three. Team members cross-trained and interchangeable among tasks within the group. Incentive compensation is based on group pay and bonuses for meeting team goals for output and quality. Individual incentive compensation is not appropriate for team-based garments production. Teams may be used to perform all the operations or a certain portion of the assembly operations depending on the organization of the module and processes required. Before a firm can establish a modular production system, it must prioritize its goals and make decisions that reflect the needs of the firm.

With a team-based system operators are given the responsibility for operating their module to meet goals for throughput and quality. The team is responsible for maintaining a smooth work flow, meeting production goals, maintaining a specified quality level, and handling motivational support for the team. Team members develop an interdependency to improve the process and accomplish their goals. Interdependency is the relationship among team members that utilizes everyone's strengths for the betterment of the team.

Work flow in modular garments production
A Modular garments Production System operates as a Pull System, with demand for work coming from the next operator in line to process the garment. Wastage is normal, and workflow is continuous and does not wait ahead of each operation. This increases the potentials for flexibility of styles and quantities of products that can be produced. Teams usually operate as ‘Stand-up’ or ‘Sit-down’ units.

A module may be divided into several work zones based on the sequence of garments operations and the time required for each operation. A work zone consists of a group of sequential garment operations. Operators are trained to perform the operations in their work zone and adjacent operations in adjoining work zones so they can move freely from one operation to another as the garment progresses.

Work flow within a module may be with a Single-piece hand-off, Kanban, or Bump-back system. If a single-piece hand-off is used, machines are arranged in a very tight configuration. As soon as an operation is completed the part is handed to the next operator for processing. Operations need to be well balanced as there is usually only one garment component between each operation. Some modules may operate with a buffer or small bundle of up to ten pieces of work between operators. If a small bundle is used, an operator will complete the operation on the entire bundle and carry the bundle to the next operation. An operator may follow a component or bundle for as many operations as they have been trained or until the adjacent operator is ready to assume work on the bundle.

A Kanban uses a designated work space between operations to balance supply with demand. The designated space will hold a limited number of completed components (two or three) in queue for the next operation. If the designated space is full, there is no need to produce more until it is needed or the space empties. This limits build up of product ahead of the next operation. When the space is full the operator can assist with other operations that may be slow.

The bump-back or TSS (Toyota Sewing System) approach was developed by the Toyota Sewn Product Management System and is probably the most widely used type of team-based manufacturing. It is a stand-up module with flexible work zones and cross-trained operators. Operators may be cross-trained on up to four different successive operations. This enables operators to shift from operation to operation until the next operator is ready to begin work on the garment. The operator needing work steps to the beginning of the zone and takes over the processing at whatever point it is in the production process. The operator who has been relieved of the garment will then move back to the beginning of the work zone and take over work on another garment. This approach enables continuous work on a garment and allows each operator to perform several different operations. This arrangement frequently uses a 4-to-l ratio of machines to operators.

Advantages of a Modular Garment Production System are:
1.) High flexibility
2.) Fast throughput times
3.) Low wastages
4.) Reduced Absenteeism
5.) Reduced Repetitive Motion Ailments
6.) Increased employee ownership of the production process
7.) Empowered employees
8.) Improved Quality

Disadvantages of Modular Garments Production System:
1.) A high capital investment in equipment.
2.) High investment in initial training.
3.) High cost incurred in continued training

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Progressive Bundle System of Apparel garments production

 of apparel garments manufacturing could be summarized :
There are so many popular apparel garments production systems, such as


-Progressive bundle system
-Unit Production System
-Modular Garments Production System
-Combined garments Production System

The progressive bundle system (PBS) of apparel garments production gets its name from the bundles of garment parts that are moved sequentially from operation to operation. This bundle system, often referred to as the traditional garments production system, has been widely used by garments manufacturers for several decades and still is today. The AAMA Technical Advisory Committee (1993) reported that 80 percent of the apparel manufacturers used the bundle system of garments production. They also predicted that use of bundle systems for garments production would decrease as firms seek more flexibility in their production systems.

Bundles system of apparel production consist of garment parts needed to complete a specific operation or garment component. For example, an operation bundle for pocket setting might include shirt fronts and pockets that are to be attached with garments. Bundle sizes may range from two to a hundred parts. Some firms operate with a standard bundle size of particular garments, while other firms vary bundle sizes according to cutting orders, fabric shading, size of the pieces in the bundle, and the operation that is to be completed. Some firms use a dozen or multiples of a dozen of garments because their sales are in dozens. Bundles of garments are assembled in the cutting room where cut parts are matched up with corresponding parts and bundle tickets.

Bundles of cut parts are transported to the sewing room in the garments and given to the garments operator scheduled to complete the garments production operation. One garments operator is expected to perform the same operation on all the pieces in the bundle, retie the bundle, process coupon, and set it aside until it is picked up and moved to the next operation of garments production. A progressive bundle system of garments production may require a high volume of work in process cause of the number of units in the bundles and the large buffer of backup that is needed to ensure a continuous work flow for all operators in garments.

The progressive bundle system of garments production may be used with a skill center or line layout depending on the order that bundles are advanced through garments production. Each style may have different processing requirements and thus different routing. Routing identifies the basic operations, sequence of garments production, and the skill centers where those garments operations are to be performed. Some garments operations are common to many styles, and at those operations, work may build up waiting to be processed.

Disadvantages of progressive bundle system of garments production:
The progressive bundle system of garments production is driven by cost efficiency for individual garments operations. Garments operators perform the same operation on a continuing basis, which allows them to increase their speed and productivity. Operators of garments who are compensated by piece rates become extremely efficient at one garments operation and may not be willing to learn a new garments operation because it reduces their efficiency and earnings. Individual operators that work in a progressive bundle system of garments production are independent of other operators and the final product.

Slow processing, absenteeism, and equipment failure may also cause major bottlenecks within the system. Large quantities of work in process are often characteristic of this type of garments production system. This may lead to longer throughput time, poor quality concealed by bundles of garments, large inventory, extra handling, and difficulty in controlling inventory of garments industry.

Advantages progressive bundle system of garments production:
The success of a bundle production system of garments manufacturing may depend on how the production system is set up and used in a plant. This production system may allow better utilization of specialized garments production machines, as output from one special purpose automated garments machine may be able to supply several garments machine operators for the next operation. Small bundles of garments allow faster throughput unless there are bottlenecks and extensive waiting between operations.
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Unit Production System of garments manufacturing

Unit Production System of garments manufacturing:
There are so many popular apparel garments production systems, such as


A unit production system (UPS) of garments production is a type of line layout that uses an overhead transporter system to move garment components from work station to work station for assembly. All the parts for a single garment are advanced through the production line together by means of a hanging carrier that travels along an overhead conveyor. The overhead rail garments production system consists of the main conveyor and accumulating rails for each work station of garments. The overhead conveyor operates much like a railroad track. Carriers are moved along the main conveyor and switched to an accumulating rail at the work station where an operation is to be performed. At the completion of an operation the operator presses a button, and the carrier moves on to the next operation.

Most unit production systems of garments production are linked to a computer control center that routes and tracks production and provides up-to-the-minute data for management decisions. The automatic control of work flow sorts work, balances the line, and reduces claims of favoritism in bundle distribution in garments production. Electronic data collection provides payroll and inventory data, immediate tracking of styles, and costing and performance data for prompt decisions.

Processing begins at a staging area in the sewing room of garments. Cut parts for one unit of a single style are grouped and loaded directly from the staging area to a hanging carrier. Loading is carefully planned so minimal handling is required to deliver garment parts in precisely the order and manner that they will be sewn. When possible, garments operations are completed without removing the parts from the carrier. Varied sizes and types of hanging carriers are available for different types of garments products. Automated garments handling replaces the traditional garments production system of bundling, tying and untying, and manually moving garment parts. Unit production systems eliminate most of the lifting and turning needed to handle bundles and garment parts.

The need for bundle tickets and processing operator coupons is also eliminated when an integrated computer system monitors the work of each garments operator. Individual bar codes or electronic devices are embedded in the carriers and read by a bar code scanner at each workstation and control points in garments factory. Any data that are needed for sorting and processing such as style number, color shade, and lot can be included.

Integrated garments production systems have on-line terminals located at each work station to collect data on each operation. Each garment operator may advance completed units, reroute units that need repair or processing to a different station of garments, and check their efficiencies and earnings. Garments operator may signal for more inventory or call for a supervisor if assistance is needed. The terminals at each station enables central control center to track each unit at any given moment and provide garments management with data to make immediate decisions on routing and scheduling.

Garments operators of the UPS control center can determine sequences of orders and colors to keep operators supplied with work and to minimize change in equipment, operations, and thread colors. A unit garments production system can control multiple routes and simultaneous production of multiple styles without restructuring production lines in garments. The control center may perform routing and automatic balancing of work flow, which reduces bottlenecks and work stoppages. Each operator as well as the control center is able to monitor individual work history. Data can be collected on the amount of time an garments operator works, time spent on each individual unit, number of units completed, the operator who worked on each unit, and the piece rate earned for each unit in garments. The system of garments production will calculate the earnings per hour, per day, and the efficiency rate of each garments operator.

Advantages of Unit Production System of garments production:
Benefits of a unit garments production system depend on how a production system is used and the effectiveness of management. Throughput time in the sewing room can be drastically reduced when compared to the progressive bundle system of garments production because works in process levels are reduced. Garments operator productivity increases. Direct labor costs are reduced because of prepositioned parts in the carriers and elimination of bundle processing. Indirect labor costs may be reduced by elimination of bundle handling and requiring fewer supervisors. Quality is improved because of accountability of all garments operators and immediate visibility of problems that are no longer concealed in bundles for extended periods of time. The central control system in garments production makes it possible to immediately track a quality problem to the operator that completed the operation. Other benefits that are realized are improved attendance and employee turnover and reduced space utilization.

Disadvantages Unit Production System of garments production:
Considerations for installing a UPS include costs of buying equipment, cost of installing, specialized training for the production system, and prevention of downtime. Down time is a potential problem with any of the garments production systems, but the low work in process that is maintained makes UPS especially vulnerable.
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Sunday, August 5, 2012

Introduction to work study and productivity improvement technique in textile and apparel garments Industry

Introduction to work study and productivity improvement technique:

Bangladesh has gone through an unprecedented growth of export oriented apparel garments industry. The growth rate is spectacular if seen from the view point that development in any other sector of industry was sluggish and of basic sector in particular, was negative and has been a source of drain on our resources.
At the starting garments business with a handful of units in 1978-1980, the clothing sub sector now comprises more than 43300 units and readymade apparel garments export value worth USD 6.40 billion.
Production of yarn, knit fabric, woven fabric, clothing and readymade garments items is rather a very complex job under a lot of pressure points. Added to the particular complexity and unique feature of apparel garments production there is the lack of appropriate management techniques.
Apparel garments and textile industry in this country are said to be not competitetive because of a host of reason. Many experts speculate with rational that with the withdrawal of quota protection. Apparel factories may find them in a deep hole unless some breakthrough takes place in the following areas:
1.    Shorting of lead time for producing apparel garments product.
2.    Effecting substantial improvement in productivity and quality of textile and garments items.
3.    Improvement of infrastructure
4.    Existence of due political stability
5.    Improvement of compliance status
Out of the mentioned measure the easiest one is the improvement of productivity and quality so as to be become competitive with the most difficult countries like china India Pakistan Vietnam countries of sub-saharan Africa and NAFTA ets.
A number of measures should be undertaken to substantially improve productivity of a textile or garments industry. The first and foremost measure to be implemented is introduction of work study principles in the apparel garments textile and dyeing industries.
Work study is a proper and specific management technique that introduce and determines standard time required to complete a job and discovers the best method and technique to accomplish the job in the easiest and cheapest way. As manual work abounds in the apparel industries work study is the only way to stipulate a time frame to complete each particular job. Work study is the only way to stipulate a time frame to complete each job.  Work study also specifies the right method of doing the job. Thus it helps enhance production productivity to the desired production level.
This also illustrates Work study principles as applied to the apparel, textile dyeing, knitting and woven industries. Besides, the further topics deal with all of the other techniques, concepts, methods, technology necessary for improving productivity of the apparel garments industry. The total work study articles has been designed bilingual so that diverse categories of people like entrepreneurs, managers, officers, and supervisors can make use of those.   It has been designed to be suitable for novices as well. This is a Teach Yourself type guideline. Examples given those articles are taken from real life circumstances. It will be a source of great joy if this effort of the author can in any way, contribute to improving productivity in apparel industries of this countries.
Let’s read the related articles on work-study and productivity improvements. 

Wednesday, November 2, 2011

SELECTION OF DYEING PROCESS FOR DYEING OF TEXTILE MATERIAL

SELECTION OF DYEING PROCESS:
Even dyes that belong to the same class can have differing degrees of colorfastness to the same condition, so that the consumer has no real guarantee of color permanence unless a label specifies that a particular fabric is colorfast. Dye performance labeling is not required by any form of legislation or regulation. Some manufacturers do, however, include colorfastness information on labels. Such labels will generally describe the conditions under which the fabric is colorfast, such as “colorfast to laundering, but not to chlorine bleaching” or “colorfast to sunlight.” A few terms may be found on labels that carry an assurance of colorfastness, such as trademarks that have been applied to solution-dyed synthetic fibers. The colorfastness of one class of dyes, the vat dyes, is so consistently good for laundering that the term “vat dyed” on labels has come to be accepted as an assurance of good colorfastness.

Textile may be dyed at any stage of their development from fiber into fabric or certain garments by the following methods:

• Stock dyeing, in the fiber stage
• Top dyeing, in the combed wool sliver stage
• Yarn dyeing, after the fiber has been spun into yarn
• Fabric/ Piece dyeing, after the yarn has been constructed into fabric
• Solution pigmenting or dope dyeing before a manmade fiber is extruded through the spinneret
• Garment dyeing after certain kinds of apparel are knitted /Woven


Stock Dyeing:

Mass Coloration
Mass coloration is the addition of color to manufactured fibers before they are extruded. These fibers have been variously known as spun-dyed, solution-dyed or doped.:; ed. iib.,is extruded, it carries the coloring material as an integral part of the

fiber.This “locked-in” color is extremely fast to laundering (that is, it will not diminish); however, such colors can be sensitive to light and bleaching or may fade. The range of colors in which solution dyeing is done is rather limited for economic reasons.

The fiber manufacturer must produce substantial quantities of fiber to justify the expense of adding an extra step during the manufacturing process. Furthermore, fiber production takes place well in advance of the time when fabrics reach the market.

Fashion color trends may change fairly rapidly, so that, by the time a mass colored fabric reaches the market, the color may be out of fashion and not salable. For this reason, spun-dyed fabrics are generally produced in basic colors. Mass coloration is used on acetate to prevent gas fading. Gas fumes in the air may turn some blue or green dyes used for acetate to pink or brown.

Dyeing Fibers
When color is added at the fiber stage, this process is known as fiber dyeing or stock dyeing. It is a batch process in which loose (usually staple) fibers are immersed in a dyebath. dyeing takes place, and the fibers are dried. Exhaustion is quicker in fiber dyeing because the dye liquor has better access to fiber surfaces.

Levelness may be a problem but its effect can be minimized by blending fibers later during yarn processing. Stock-dyed fibers are most often used in tweed or heather effect materials in which delicate shadings of color are produced by combining fibers of varying colors. The yarns in Harris Tweed fabrics are a distinctive example of fiber dyeing. Fiber-dyed fabrics can be identified by untwisting the yarns to see whether the yarn is made up of a variety of different colored fibers. In solid-colored yarns untwisted stock-dyed fibers will be uniform in color, with no darker or lighter areas. Stock dyeing refers to dyeing a staple fiber before it is spun.

There are two methods.

The first method, bale dyeing, applied mostly on wool and all types of manmade fibers, is that of splitting the bale covering on all six sides, placing the entire bale in a specially designed machine (the covering and straps need not be removed), and then forcing the dye liquor through the bale of fiber. In stock dyeing, which is the most effective and expensive method of dyeing, the color is well penetrated into the fibers and does not crock readily.

**yarn & fabric dyeing **

Yarn Dyeing
When dyeing is done after the fiber has been spun into yarn, it is described as yarn dyeing. Cloth made of dyed yarns is called yarn-dyed. Yarn-dyed fabrics are usually deeper and richer in color. Yarn-dyed fabrics intended for laundering must be quite colorfast, or bleeding could occur. The primary reason for dyeing in the yarn form is to create interesting checks, stripes, and plaids with different-colored yarns in the weaving process.

If color has not been added either to the polymer or the fiber, it can be applied to the yarns before they are made into fabrics. Yarns may be dyed in skeins, in packages, or on beams. Special dyeing equipment is required for each of these batch processes. In skein dyeing, large skeins of yarn are loosely wound on sticks and placed in a vat for dyeing. In package dyeing, the yarn is wound onto a number of perforated tubes or springs. The dye is circulated through the tubes to ensure that the yarns have maximum contact with the dye. Beam dyeing is a variation of package dyeing, which uses a larger cylinder onto which a set of warp yarns is wound.

Many types of fabrics utilize yarn of differing colors to achieve a particular design. Stripes in which contrasting sections of color alternate in the length or crosswise direction, chambrays in which one color is used in one direction and another color is used in the other direction, complex dobby or jacquard weaves, and plaids may all require yarns to which color has already been added.

Yarn-dyed fabrics may be identified by unraveling several warp and several filling yarns from the pattern area to see whether they differ in color. Not only will each yarn be a different color, but the yarns will have no darker or lighter areas where they have crossed other yarns.

Usually yarns are dyed to one solid color, but in a variant of the technique called space dyeing, yarns may be dyed in such a way that color-and-white or multicolored effects are formed along the length of the yarn.

Skein (Hank) Dyeing:
Yarn may be prepared in skein, or hank, form and then dyed. The loose arrangement of the yarn allows for excellent dye penetration. The skeins are hung over a rung and immersed in a dye bath in a large container.

Piece Dyeing
Fabrics that are to be a solid color are usually piece dyed. In piece’ dyeing, the finished fabric is passed through a dye bath where the fibers in the fabric absorb the dye. A number of different methods are used for piece dyeing, each of which differs slightly in the way in which the fabric is handled. Fabrics may be dyed in either continuous or batch processes. In continuous dyeing, the cloth continually passes through the dyebath. This is the cheaper process and, where possible, is used for dyeing large yardages. Batch dyeing is used for shorter fabric lengths.

Some fabrics are dyed in open, Rat widths. Knitted fabrics and those woven materials that are not subject to creasing are handled in “rope” form, that is, bunched together and handled as a narrower strand. They are usually attached at the ends to form a continuous loop. Some dyeing methods are especially suitable for certain types of fabrics and unsuitable for others. Many different kinds of machines can be used for piece dyeing. The great bulk of dyed fabric on the market is dyed in the piece.

Small lots of fabrics of all fibers are dyed in batches. Piece dyeing is thoroughly satisfactory as regards levelness, penetration, and overall fastness, assuming that the proper dyes have been used. Fabric may be piece-dyed whether it is composed of only one kind of fiber or yarn or of blends of different fibers or combinations of different yarns. When the fabric is made of one kind of fiber or yarn, then dyeing is relatively uncomplicated because the one appropriate dye is used. However, when the fabric contains a blend of fibers or combination of different yarns, then special procedures are required which employ different dyes that are each specific for the particular fibers used. These procedures are called union dyeing and cross dyeing.

Union Dyeing:
This process of dyeing piece goods made of different fibers or yarns in one color may be readily accomplished. Although different fibers may require different dyes to obtain the same color, this may be done by putting the appropriate color dye that is specific to each type of fiber into one dye bath.

Cross Dyeing:
One method is a combination of stock dyeing or of yarn dyeing with subsequent piece dyeing. Cross dyeing produces varied effects. For instance, either the warp or the filling yarns may be stock-dyed or yarn-dyed, one set of yarns being left undyed. The fabric is piece-dyed after weaving; thus, color is given to the undyed yarn in a second dyebath, and the yarns that were originally stock-dyed or yarn-dyed acquire some additional coloring, which blends with the piece-dyed portion of the fabric. If yarns of vegetable fibers have been combined with yarns of animal fibers in a fabric that is to be piece-dyed, two separate dye baths must be used. The fabric is dipped into both solutions, each of which affects the fiber for which it has an affinity. This provides colorful effects. Still another method of cross-dyeing is to immerse a fabric composed of two different types of fibers into one dye bath containing two different dyes, one specific for each of the fibers. One of methods of piece dyeing is described below.

Beck Dyeing(Beam dyeing)
Long lengths of cloth that are to be dyed on a continuous process are very often beck-dyed, or box-dyed, by passing the fabric in tension-free rope form through the dyebath. The rope of cloth moves over a rail onto a reel, which immerses it into the dye and then draws the fabric up and forward to the front of the machine. The process is repeated as long as necessary to dye the material uniformly to the desired intensity of color.

Beam dyeing, which is used for lightweight, fairly open-weave fabrics, utilizes the same principle as beam dyeing of yarns. The fabric is wrapped around a perforated beam and immersed in the dyebath. Tightly woven fabrics would not allow sufficient dye penetration; hence, this method must be applied to loosely woven cloth. It has the added advantage of not putting tension or pressure on the goods as they are processed.

Jig Dyeing:
This method utilizes the basic procedure of beck dyeing. However, in jig dyeing, the fabric is held on rollers at full width rather than in rope form as it is passed through the dye bath. The rope of cloth moves over a rail onto a reel, which immerses it into the dye and then draws the fabric up and forward to the front of the machine. The process is repeated as long as necessary to dye the material uniformly to the desired intensity of color. Batch processes that dye fabric in flat widths are jig and beam dyeing. Jig dyeing is a process that places greater tension on the fabric than the beck and jet machines. Fabrics are stretched across two rollers that are placed above a stationary dyebath. The fabric is passed through the dyebath and wound on one roller. The motion is then reversed until the desired exhaustion or depth of shade is achieved. The tension created by placing the fabric on the rollers means that this process must be reserved for fabrics with a fairly close weave that will not lose their shape under tension.

Jig dyeing
Jet dyeing: - Jet dyeing is a newer method that uses propulsion of the dye liquor through the fabric to improve dye penetration. Dyeing takes place in a closed system that carries a fast-moving stream of pressurized dye liquor. A fluid jet of dye penetrates and dyes the fabric. After it passes through this jet, the fabric is floated through an enclosed tube in which the fluid moves faster than the fabric. This prevents the fabric from touching the walls, keeping it constantly immersed in the dyebath. Turbulence is created by locating elbows in the tube. The turbulence aids in diffusing dyes and dyebath auxiliaries. Since no pressure is put on the fabric, even delicate fabrics can be dyed by this process. Jet dyeing has the advantage of being economical in operation and at the same time allowing a high degree of quality control

1. Fabric guide roll
2. Loading & unloading port
3. Header tank
4. U tube
5. Suction control
6. Suction control
7. Suction control
8. Delivery control
9. Main control
10. Filter
11. Heat exchanger
12. Service tank

Solution Pigmenting, or Dope Dyeing
During the production of manmade fibers, a great deal of time and money can be saved if the dye is added to the solution before it is extruded through the spinnerets into filaments. This method also gives a greater degree of colorfastness. A process called solution pigmenting, or dope dyeing, has been used for manmade fibers ranging from rayon through saran and glass fiber.

Garment Dyeing
Certain kinds of non-tailored apparel, such as hosiery, pantyhose, and sweaters can be dyed as completed garments because they are each made of a single component and will not be readily distorted. However, allowance must be made for anticipated shrinkage. A number of garments are loosely packed into a large nylon net bag. The bags are then put into a paddle dyer, which is a tub with a motor-driven paddle that agitates the dye bath. Except for dyeing socks and narrow fabrics, garment dyeing, is the process of dyeing completed garments, remained a rather unimportant novelty until the second half of the 1980s; Industry sources credit two factors with a sharp increase in the amount of garment-dyed apparel. First, fashion demanded small lots of garments from fabrics with stonewashed, ice-washed, tie-dyed, overdyed, and distressed effects. These effects were more readily achieved through garment dyeing than traditional dyeing methods. The second factor was the ability of manufacturers to achieve Quick Response or Just-In-Time production through garment dyeing.

The lead time required for delivery of orders in the traditional dyeing system is about eight weeks. For garment-dyed products lead time is about two weeks. Although the process of garment dyeing is more costly than traditional piece dyeing (estimated at $1 to $3 per item), savings are achieved in the long run because manufacturers and retailers need not maintain large inventories. If undyed merchandise is left from one season, it can be dyed for sale the following season. However, if it has already been dyed and a different color is wanted, it must be overdyed, given a second dyeing to a different color. Manufacturers can be more responsive to fashion trends by producing small dye lots.

Garment dyeing is primarily applied to cotton fabrics; however, high-pressure equipment can be used to process polyester and cotton blends. To achieve consistently good results with garment dyeing, manufacturers must exercise care in a number of areas.

1. Fabric. All fabric used in one garment must come from the same bolt of fabric. If, for example, one trouser leg of a pair of jeans is cut from one bolt of fabric, and the other from another bolt, each leg may dye to a different shade. The result would be jeans in which the legs do not match.

2. Shrinkage. Fabric must also be tested for shrinkage before cutting of garments, and garments must be cut large enough to allow for shrinkage so that sizes will be accurate.

3. Thread.
Thread must be chosen carefully and tested to be sure it will accept the dye in the same way as the fabric. One hundred percent cotton thread is preferred, but even with allcotton thread there may be problems. For example, mercerized thread will dye to a darker shade than unmercerized garment fabric. This will make the stitching stand out from the background fabric.

4. Labels, button, zippers.
All of these supplies must be compatible with the garment fabric in terms of reaction to the dye and shrinkage. The machines used for garment dyeing are called paddle machines. To avoid entanglement during dyeing, garments are generally placed inside bags. Paddles in the machine rotate, changing directions periodically, to make sure that all pieces being dyed are equally exposed to the dye liquor. Garments are generally washed before dyeing, to remove any finishing materials that would interfere with dyeing, and after dyeing to remove excess dye.

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Process sequence of cutting section in apparel garments industry

Process sequence of cutting section in apparel garments industry



Store
Fabric Fault Checking
Relaxation
Shade Checking
Prepare the fabric in the fabric spreading m/c
Spreading
Marker attachment
Cutting
Numbering
Bundling
Panel Check (QC)
Fault
←     ↔    →
OK
Replace Cut
→     →      ←    ←
Solid
←     ↔    →
Not Solid
Print / Embroidery
→     →      ←    ←
Checking & Counting (QC)
Sewing









Store of Garments:
Garments store is the sector where all the raw material are stored which are need to make a garments. Raw fabric for cutting, which will be processed to garments by cutting, sewing, is kept here until the process starts. This fabric comes from the main factory after knitting and dyeing. Different types of fabrics like Single Jersey, Lycra, fleece, rib etc. There are three sections, Fabric Store, Garments Store, and General Store. In Fabric store all the fabric is being stored. In Garment store, all the items without fabrics that are needed to produce garment is stored. Finally, in General store, all the related things that is needed to run a factory is stored.

In fabric store, normally 250-300 ton fabric comes to store in each day. Now, around 37 ton fabrics are stored. Few days ago, this number was around 100 ton. Cutting department get fabrics from here. There is a Fabrics Requisition sheet where all the information is being written about the fabrics movement from store to cutting section.


Fabric Fault Check out before cutting:
This quality control section is very important before garments cutting. The fabric is roughly checked from dyeing section and then those are sending to garments factory for producing complete garments. Usually very small amount of fault comes from dyeing. Small hole and pin hole are the main fault get in cutting quality check. But a single pin hole in single part of garment could be the cause of rejection of garments and it is a major defect. That’s why a thoroughly checking is done before cutting. Here Fabrics are being checked before going to relaxation section of cutting. Required number of table is preserved for fault checking. Fabric fault like hole, yarn miss, dart etc are being checked. Normally 10% fabric is checked. There are two popular fabric fault checking system is exist. Ten point system and four point system. Usually four point system is very much popular for knitted fabric and ten point system is popular for woven fabric.


Relaxation of fabric for cutting
Normally Fabric came in a roll form. Before sending the fabric for cutting, it is necessary to relax the fabric. Usually fabric comes as the form of role or gathered from textile dyeing section. So the dimensional stability of fabric is relatively lower and it contain crease mark. The fabric is kept in an open place for around 12-24 hours according to fabrics type and buyer requirements. Relaxation time for lycra fabric and pique fabric is around 3 days and minimum 24 hours. For Single Jersey and Fleece fabric, standard relaxation time is 24 hours and minimum time is 12 hours. There are racks to store the fabrics for relaxation.


Shade Checking before cutting:
Shade checking is most important part in cutting section. Before spreading the fabric on the cutting table, relaxed fabric is rechecked for shade variation in time of relaxation. If the fabric is ok then it goes for cutting. If not, then that part of fabric is rejected and transferred for further reprocessing. 

Prepare the fabric in the fabric spreading m/c
The fabric is being gathered in the machine in a small lay form that will be easy to spread the fabric in the fabric cutting table. At least two men are needed to do the job.

Spreading of fabric:
Fabric is spread on the table by spreader machine. One man control the machine and around 6-10 people to adjust the fabric to its specific dimension. Number of layer varies according to the marker length and production needed. More the layer length will be, the more will be the production rate.

Marker attachment
After laying down the specific number of fabric on the cutting table the marker paper is over laid on the fabric. Then the marker paper is attached to the fabric  by some adhesive. 

Cutting
There are cutting man to cut the laid fabrics according to the marker sketch. Normally two men do this job. Generally 10-15 number of laid fabric is being cut.

Numbering
The fabric peaces are being numbered by a labeling machine to identify these peaces in future.

Bundling
All the numbered fabric is then bundled together and send it for checking.

Panel Check (QC)
Here, the fabric is being checked for any fault. There is a sticker with all the information that is needed to identify this bundle in future for further processing like, Date, Buyer, cutting no., size, bundle no, quantity, serial no., color, lot no. In checking normally Cutting no., size, serial no. are checked.

After Panel Check
If there is a fault in the fabric then it send for further processing. If there is some spot in the fabric then it will be washed and if there is hole or some thing that needed to be replaced then is send for replace cutting.

If the garment will be solid then it goes for sewing. But if some fabric peaces needed to be printed or embroidery then it goes for it. After returning from printing or embroidery the fabric is ready for sewing.  

Checking & Counting (QC)
After doing, the entire job in cutting section the fabric is checked and counted. Then, all these peaces go for sewing. Responsible people from sewing department receive the fabric from cutting department.

Sewing
Now, the peaces of fabrics are joined together to make the final product.


Friday, October 28, 2011

All Section Quality Check List of apparel garments industry




All Section Quality Check List of apparel garments industry

1. Cutting Quality Check List:

•           Pattern to Cutting Garments Measurement Check.
•           Fabric diameter Measurement Check.
•           Cutting Lay Check.
•           Fabric Roll to Roll Shade Check.
•           Fabric G.S.M Check.
•           Bundle Mistake Check.
•           Size Mistake Check.
•           Fabric Color Mistake Check.
•           Yarn contaminated Check.
•           Any Fabric Problem Check.

2. Sewing Line quality Check List:

•           Buyer Approved Sample & Measurement Sheet Check.
•           Sample Wise Input Check.
•           Buyer Approved Trims Card Check.
•           Buyer Approved Sample Wise Style Check.
•           All Machine Thread Tension Check.
•           Style Wise Print & Embroidery Placement Check.
•           All Process Measurement Check.
•           All Machine Oil Spot Check.
•           All Process S.P.I Check as Per Buyer Requirement.
•           Input Time Shading, Bundle Mistake & Size Mistake Check.
•           Buyer Approved Wise Contrast Color Check.                                                                           •           As per Buyer Requirement Wise Styling Check.
•           All Machine Stitch Tension Balance Properly.

                                                                                                                                                                      
  3. Sewing Table Quality Check List:

•           Style Wise Garments Check.
•           All Process Measurement Check..
•           Front Part, Back Part, Sleeve & Thread Shading Check.
•           S.P.I Check for All Process.
•           Print/Embroidery Placement Check.
•           Main Label, Care Label, Size Label &Care Symbol Check.
•           Size Mistake Check.
•           All Process Alter Check.
•           Any Fabric Fault /Rejection Check.


4. Finishing Quality Check List:

•           As Per Buyer Requirement Wise Iron Check..
•           Buyer Approved Sample Wise Style Check.
•           Front Part, Back part, Sleeve, Rib Thread & Contrast Color check.
•           Print/Embroidery Quality & Placement Check.
•           All process S.P.I check.
•           Oil Spot/Dirty Spot Check.
•           Main Label Care label & Care Symbol Check.
•           Any Fabric Fault & Fabric Reject Check.
•           All process Measurement Check.
•           Blister Poly & After Poly Getup Check.
•           Hang tag & Price Sticker Check.
•           Assortment Every Carton Pcs Quantity Check.
•           Buyer Requirement Wise Ctn Size, Poly Size, & garments Size Check.

5. Out Side Print & Embroidery Quality Check List:
   
•           Buyer Approved Sample or Artwork Wise Bulk Sample Print & Embroidery Design Check.
•           Size Wise Approved Pattern Placement Check.
•           As per Sample Wise Print Design, Color & Quality Check.
•           Bundle & Size Wise Print/Embroidery Check.
•           Fabric Top Side in Side Check.
•           Print / Embroidery Pattern Placement Check.
•           As Per Sample Wise Print/Embroidery Design, Thread Color Quality Check.
•           Print/Embroidery Color Wise Wash Test Check.

6. Store Quality Check List:

•           Buyer Approved Trims Card Check.
•           Buyer Approved Sample Wise Main, Size & Care Label Check.
•           Buyer Approved Sample Wise Care Symbol Check.
•           Thread Color Shading & Quality Check.
•           Buyer Wise Hang tag & Price Sticker Check.

You should read RELATED POST for more information:
Wish you good luck............................................................

Modern textile testing and quality control equipment

Modern textile testing and quality control equipment:




Quality: Quality is the attribute of the products that determines its fitness for use, or according to Japanese Standard (JIS), textile (fibre, polymer, yarn, fabric) quality is all specific properties and performance of a textile product or service that can be evaluated to determine whether a product or services satisfactorily meets the purposes of its uses. The level of quality is measured by “ inherent properties and performances which is the subjects of evaluation or the characteristic related to its phsico-mechanical or chemical properties, dimension, longevity, durability utilization or any other requirement used to define the of the product or service is known as “quality characteristics”.

Standard: It is an agreed document established mainly with respect to technical matters related directly or indirectly to an article or service. So that profit or convenience may be obtained with fairness among the person concerned.

Testing:  The way to control or the way to check or verify the nature & characteristics. Or, the way to checking or verifying.


Modern Fibre or Polymer Quality Testing Equipment:
Fibre characteristics must be classified according to a certain sequence of importance with respect to the end product and the spinning process. Moreover, such quantified characteristics must also be assessed with reference to the following
• What is the ideal value?
• What amount of variation is acceptable in the bale material?
• What amount of variation is acceptable in the final blend?

Textile fibre contains some basic characteristics. 
Following are the basic characteristics of cotton fibre
• Fiber length
• Fineness
• Strength
• Maturity
• Rigidity
• Fiber friction
• Structural features

Name Of The Machine for fibre testing and quality control
Function of the Fibre/ Polymer Quality testing machine
1.HVI (High Volume Instrument)
It’s a very popular fibre characterization and quality testing machine in USA, UK, China, Korea and other countries. It is very cause sensitive and provides perfect fibre quality testing result.
50% span length, 2.5% span length, Uniformity ratio, Mic value, Color grade, Maturity ratio, gm/tex (tenacity), SFI (Short Fibre Index) etc.
Suitable for knitted yarn production.
2.AFIS (Advance Fibre Information System)
It is also popular fibre testing machine and very cause sensitive and provides perfect fibre quality testing result.
50% span length, 2.5% span length, Upper half length, Trash%, Neps, Seed coat neps both in number & weight, short fibre content, Maturity ratio, fibre strength etc.
Suitable for export woven fabric production.
3.Digital Fibre Graph
It is also popular fibre quality testing equipment and used to measure 50% span length, 2.5% span length, Uniformity ratio.
4.Digital Moisture meter
It is also popular fibre quality testing equipment and used to measure Directly Moisture content % is determined.     
5.Trash Selection
It is also popular fibre quality testing equipment and used to measure Trash% in raw cotton is found out.
6.Sling Hygrometer
It is also popular fibre quality testing equipment and used to measure Directly RH% is measured.
7.Precision Polarizing Microscope
Ihis type of testing machine is used for Fibre identified with digital photographs, maturity ratio.
8.Stetometer with Torsion Balance
Bundle fibre strength is measured by this testing machine.
9.Instron
This type of testing machine is rear in used. Single fibre strength is measured (research based) by this testing equipment.


Modern Yarn Quality Testing Equipment:

Yarn is a main element for textile production. Good yarn contains some characteristics. The main characteristics are strength, elongation, hairiness, uniformity, diameter etc.

Name Of The Machine for yarn testing and quality control
Function of the Yarn Quality testing machine
1.Uster Evenness Tester 4&5
This yarn quality testing equipment is used to measure
U%, CV%, Imperfection (Thick place /1000m, Thin place/1000m, Neps /1000m), Irregularity index, Relative count, hairiness etc. In case of UT-5 polypropylene content in yarn is also determined recently.
2.Uster Tenso Jet
This yarn quality testing equipment is used to measure
 Single yarn strength & Elongation% is determined.
3.Uster Tenso Kind
This yarn quality testing equipment is used to measure
Lea strength, Breaking force, Elongation% determined.
4.Uster Tenso Rapid
This yarn quality testing equipment is used to measure
Single yarn strength, Lea strength & Fabric strength, Elongation% is determined.
5.Uster Classimat
This yarn quality testing equipment is used to measure
Yarn fault in category wise determined (23-27 categories).
6.Auto Cone Winder
This yarn quality testing equipment is used to measure
Auto splicing, Slubs removes in running m/c.
7.Uster Auto Sorter
This yarn quality testing equipment is used to measure
Rapidly Yarn count, Sliver/Roving hank etc


Modern Fabric Quality Testing Equipment:

Textile fabrics are made for various purpose, each of which has different performance needs. The chemical and physical states of textile fabric identify what will the end use of this, and ultimately whether it is reasonable for a specific use. Fabric testing makes a crucial role in gauging product quality, ensuring regulatory compliance and assessing the perfection of textile materials. It provides information about the physical or structural, chemical and performance properties of the textile. As user become more aware and more demanding of products, the number of tests required for textile fabrics has grown. As a result the testing of fabrics is increasingly varied, in constant flux and full of the unprecedented challenges of globalization. With the onset of modern types of fabrics for the garments factory and of technical textiles for functional applications, and with the growing number of invention taking place in the apparel sector, fabric testing processes have undergone tremendous changes and there is required to realize all the procedures before a testing method is involved to investigate the performance of fabrics. 

Name Of The Machine for fabric testing and quality control
Function of the Fabric Quality testing machine
1.Automatic Pick Counter
Ends/inch & Picks/inch is digitally measured.
2.Universal Titan
Fabric strength, Elongation with printed form.
3.Spectro Photometer/Data
   Color
Pass/fail (quality if fabric), Recipe formulation, Grey scale value, Whiteness value, Shade% etc is determined.
4.Wascator
Shrinkage% is determined by programming.
5.Martindile Abrasion &
   Pilling tester
 Abrasion resistance as well as pill formation on the fabric is determined.
6.Seam Slippage Tester
Seam strength & Elongation % is determined.
7.GSM Cutter with Balance
GSM of the fabric is measured.
8.Color dispenser
Automatically stock solution is prepared according to Programming.
9.Megasol
Light fastness of the dyed fabric is determined digitally.

You should read RELATED POST for more information
Wish you good luck..............................................


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