SELECTION OF DYEING PROCESS FOR DYEING OF TEXTILE MATERIAL

SELECTION OF DYEING PROCESS:

Even dyes that belong to the same class can have differing degrees of colorfastness to the same condition, so that the consumer has no real guarantee of color permanence unless a label specifies that a particular fabric is colorfast. Dye performance labeling is not required by any form of legislation or regulation. Some manufacturers do, however, include colorfastness information on labels. Such labels will generally describe the conditions under which the fabric is colorfast, such as “colorfast to laundering, but not to chlorine bleaching” or “colorfast to sunlight.” A few terms may be found on labels that carry an assurance of colorfastness, such as trademarks that have been applied to solution-dyed synthetic fibers. The colorfastness of one class of dyes, the vat dyes, is so consistently good for laundering that the term “vat dyed” on labels has come to be accepted as an assurance of good colorfastness.

Textile may be dyed at any stage of their development from fiber into fabric or certain garments by the following methods:

• Stock dyeing, in the fiber stage

• Top dyeing, in the combed wool sliver stage

• Yarn dyeing, after the fiber has been spun into yarn

• Fabric/ Piece dyeing, after the yarn has been constructed into fabric

• Solution pigmenting or dope dyeing before a manmade fiber is extruded through the spinneret

• Garment dyeing after certain kinds of apparel are knitted /Woven

Stock Dyeing:

Mass Coloration

Mass coloration is the addition of color to manufactured fibers before they are extruded. These fibers have been variously known as spun-dyed, solution-dyed or doped.:; ed. iib.,is extruded, it carries the coloring material as an integral part of the

fiber.This “locked-in” color is extremely fast to laundering (that is, it will not diminish); however, such colors can be sensitive to light and bleaching or may fade. The range of colors in which solution dyeing is done is rather limited for economic reasons.

The fiber manufacturer must produce substantial quantities of fiber to justify the expense of adding an extra step during the manufacturing process. Furthermore, fiber production takes place well in advance of the time when fabrics reach the market.

Fashion color trends may change fairly rapidly, so that, by the time a mass colored fabric reaches the market, the color may be out of fashion and not salable. For this reason, spun-dyed fabrics are generally produced in basic colors. Mass coloration is used on acetate to prevent gas fading. Gas fumes in the air may turn some blue or green dyes used for acetate to pink or brown.

Dyeing Fibers

When color is added at the fiber stage, this process is known as fiber dyeing or stock dyeing. It is a batch process in which loose (usually staple) fibers are immersed in a dyebath. dyeing takes place, and the fibers are dried. Exhaustion is quicker in fiber dyeing because the dye liquor has better access to fiber surfaces.

Levelness may be a problem but its effect can be minimized by blending fibers later during yarn processing. Stock-dyed fibers are most often used in tweed or heather effect materials in which delicate shadings of color are produced by combining fibers of varying colors. The yarns in Harris Tweed fabrics are a distinctive example of fiber dyeing. Fiber-dyed fabrics can be identified by untwisting the yarns to see whether the yarn is made up of a variety of different colored fibers. In solid-colored yarns untwisted stock-dyed fibers will be uniform in color, with no darker or lighter areas. Stock dyeing refers to dyeing a staple fiber before it is spun.

There are two methods.

The first method, bale dyeing, applied mostly on wool and all types of manmade fibers, is that of splitting the bale covering on all six sides, placing the entire bale in a specially designed machine (the covering and straps need not be removed), and then forcing the dye liquor through the bale of fiber. In stock dyeing, which is the most effective and expensive method of dyeing, the color is well penetrated into the fibers and does not crock readily.

**yarn & fabric dyeing **

Yarn Dyeing

When dyeing is done after the fiber has been spun into yarn, it is described as yarn dyeing. Cloth made of dyed yarns is called yarn-dyed. Yarn-dyed fabrics are usually deeper and richer in color. Yarn-dyed fabrics intended for laundering must be quite colorfast, or bleeding could occur. The primary reason for dyeing in the yarn form is to create interesting checks, stripes, and plaids with different-colored yarns in the weaving process.

If color has not been added either to the polymer or the fiber, it can be applied to the yarns before they are made into fabrics. Yarns may be dyed in skeins, in packages, or on beams. Special dyeing equipment is required for each of these batch processes. In skein dyeing, large skeins of yarn are loosely wound on sticks and placed in a vat for dyeing. In package dyeing, the yarn is wound onto a number of perforated tubes or springs. The dye is circulated through the tubes to ensure that the yarns have maximum contact with the dye. Beam dyeing is a variation of package dyeing, which uses a larger cylinder onto which a set of warp yarns is wound.

Many types of fabrics utilize yarn of differing colors to achieve a particular design. Stripes in which contrasting sections of color alternate in the length or crosswise direction, chambrays in which one color is used in one direction and another color is used in the other direction, complex dobby or jacquard weaves, and plaids may all require yarns to which color has already been added.

Yarn-dyed fabrics may be identified by unraveling several warp and several filling yarns from the pattern area to see whether they differ in color. Not only will each yarn be a different color, but the yarns will have no darker or lighter areas where they have crossed other yarns.

Usually yarns are dyed to one solid color, but in a variant of the technique called space dyeing, yarns may be dyed in such a way that color-and-white or multicolored effects are formed along the length of the yarn.

Skein (Hank) Dyeing:

Yarn may be prepared in skein, or hank, form and then dyed. The loose arrangement of the yarn allows for excellent dye penetration. The skeins are hung over a rung and immersed in a dye bath in a large container.

Piece Dyeing

Fabrics that are to be a solid color are usually piece dyed. In piece’ dyeing, the finished fabric is passed through a dye bath where the fibers in the fabric absorb the dye. A number of different methods are used for piece dyeing, each of which differs slightly in the way in which the fabric is handled. Fabrics may be dyed in either continuous or batch processes. In continuous dyeing, the cloth continually passes through the dyebath. This is the cheaper process and, where possible, is used for dyeing large yardages. Batch dyeing is used for shorter fabric lengths.

Some fabrics are dyed in open, Rat widths. Knitted fabrics and those woven materials that are not subject to creasing are handled in “rope” form, that is, bunched together and handled as a narrower strand. They are usually attached at the ends to form a continuous loop. Some dyeing methods are especially suitable for certain types of fabrics and unsuitable for others. Many different kinds of machines can be used for piece dyeing. The great bulk of dyed fabric on the market is dyed in the piece.

Small lots of fabrics of all fibers are dyed in batches. Piece dyeing is thoroughly satisfactory as regards levelness, penetration, and overall fastness, assuming that the proper dyes have been used. Fabric may be piece-dyed whether it is composed of only one kind of fiber or yarn or of blends of different fibers or combinations of different yarns. When the fabric is made of one kind of fiber or yarn, then dyeing is relatively uncomplicated because the one appropriate dye is used. However, when the fabric contains a blend of fibers or combination of different yarns, then special procedures are required which employ different dyes that are each specific for the particular fibers used. These procedures are called union dyeing and cross dyeing.

Union Dyeing:

This process of dyeing piece goods made of different fibers or yarns in one color may be readily accomplished. Although different fibers may require different dyes to obtain the same color, this may be done by putting the appropriate color dye that is specific to each type of fiber into one dye bath.

Cross Dyeing:

One method is a combination of stock dyeing or of yarn dyeing with subsequent piece dyeing. Cross dyeing produces varied effects. For instance, either the warp or the filling yarns may be stock-dyed or yarn-dyed, one set of yarns being left undyed. The fabric is piece-dyed after weaving; thus, color is given to the undyed yarn in a second dyebath, and the yarns that were originally stock-dyed or yarn-dyed acquire some additional coloring, which blends with the piece-dyed portion of the fabric. If yarns of vegetable fibers have been combined with yarns of animal fibers in a fabric that is to be piece-dyed, two separate dye baths must be used. The fabric is dipped into both solutions, each of which affects the fiber for which it has an affinity. This provides colorful effects. Still another method of cross-dyeing is to immerse a fabric composed of two different types of fibers into one dye bath containing two different dyes, one specific for each of the fibers. One of methods of piece dyeing is described below.

Beck Dyeing(Beam dyeing)

Long lengths of cloth that are to be dyed on a continuous process are very often beck-dyed, or box-dyed, by passing the fabric in tension-free rope form through the dyebath. The rope of cloth moves over a rail onto a reel, which immerses it into the dye and then draws the fabric up and forward to the front of the machine. The process is repeated as long as necessary to dye the material uniformly to the desired intensity of color.

Beam dyeing, which is used for lightweight, fairly open-weave fabrics, utilizes the same principle as beam dyeing of yarns. The fabric is wrapped around a perforated beam and immersed in the dyebath. Tightly woven fabrics would not allow sufficient dye penetration; hence, this method must be applied to loosely woven cloth. It has the added advantage of not putting tension or pressure on the goods as they are processed.

Jig Dyeing:

This method utilizes the basic procedure of beck dyeing. However, in jig dyeing, the fabric is held on rollers at full width rather than in rope form as it is passed through the dye bath. The rope of cloth moves over a rail onto a reel, which immerses it into the dye and then draws the fabric up and forward to the front of the machine. The process is repeated as long as necessary to dye the material uniformly to the desired intensity of color. Batch processes that dye fabric in flat widths are jig and beam dyeing. Jig dyeing is a process that places greater tension on the fabric than the beck and jet machines. Fabrics are stretched across two rollers that are placed above a stationary dyebath. The fabric is passed through the dyebath and wound on one roller. The motion is then reversed until the desired exhaustion or depth of shade is achieved. The tension created by placing the fabric on the rollers means that this process must be reserved for fabrics with a fairly close weave that will not lose their shape under tension.

Jig dyeing

Jet dyeing: - Jet dyeing is a newer method that uses propulsion of the dye liquor through the fabric to improve dye penetration. Dyeing takes place in a closed system that carries a fast-moving stream of pressurized dye liquor. A fluid jet of dye penetrates and dyes the fabric. After it passes through this jet, the fabric is floated through an enclosed tube in which the fluid moves faster than the fabric. This prevents the fabric from touching the walls, keeping it constantly immersed in the dyebath. Turbulence is created by locating elbows in the tube. The turbulence aids in diffusing dyes and dyebath auxiliaries. Since no pressure is put on the fabric, even delicate fabrics can be dyed by this process. Jet dyeing has the advantage of being economical in operation and at the same time allowing a high degree of quality control

1. Fabric guide roll

2. Loading & unloading port

3. Header tank

4. U tube

5. Suction control

6. Suction control

7. Suction control

8. Delivery control

9. Main control

10. Filter

11. Heat exchanger

12. Service tank

Solution Pigmenting, or Dope Dyeing

During the production of manmade fibers, a great deal of time and money can be saved if the dye is added to the solution before it is extruded through the spinnerets into filaments. This method also gives a greater degree of colorfastness. A process called solution pigmenting, or dope dyeing, has been used for manmade fibers ranging from rayon through saran and glass fiber.

Garment Dyeing

Certain kinds of non-tailored apparel, such as hosiery, pantyhose, and sweaters can be dyed as completed garments because they are each made of a single component and will not be readily distorted. However, allowance must be made for anticipated shrinkage. A number of garments are loosely packed into a large nylon net bag. The bags are then put into a paddle dyer, which is a tub with a motor-driven paddle that agitates the dye bath. Except for dyeing socks and narrow fabrics, garment dyeing, is the process of dyeing completed garments, remained a rather unimportant novelty until the second half of the 1980s; Industry sources credit two factors with a sharp increase in the amount of garment-dyed apparel. First, fashion demanded small lots of garments from fabrics with stonewashed, ice-washed, tie-dyed, overdyed, and distressed effects. These effects were more readily achieved through garment dyeing than traditional dyeing methods. The second factor was the ability of manufacturers to achieve Quick Response or Just-In-Time production through garment dyeing.

The lead time required for delivery of orders in the traditional dyeing system is about eight weeks. For garment-dyed products lead time is about two weeks. Although the process of garment dyeing is more costly than traditional piece dyeing (estimated at $1 to $3 per item), savings are achieved in the long run because manufacturers and retailers need not maintain large inventories. If undyed merchandise is left from one season, it can be dyed for sale the following season. However, if it has already been dyed and a different color is wanted, it must be overdyed, given a second dyeing to a different color. Manufacturers can be more responsive to fashion trends by producing small dye lots.

Garment dyeing is primarily applied to cotton fabrics; however, high-pressure equipment can be used to process polyester and cotton blends. To achieve consistently good results with garment dyeing, manufacturers must exercise care in a number of areas.

1. Fabric. All fabric used in one garment must come from the same bolt of fabric. If, for example, one trouser leg of a pair of jeans is cut from one bolt of fabric, and the other from another bolt, each leg may dye to a different shade. The result would be jeans in which the legs do not match.

2. Shrinkage. Fabric must also be tested for shrinkage before cutting of garments, and garments must be cut large enough to allow for shrinkage so that sizes will be accurate.

3. Thread. Thread must be chosen carefully and tested to be sure it will accept the dye in the same way as the fabric. One hundred percent cotton thread is preferred, but even with allcotton thread there may be problems. For example, mercerized thread will dye to a darker shade than unmercerized garment fabric. This will make the stitching stand out from the background fabric.

4. Labels, button, zippers. All of these supplies must be compatible with the garment fabric in terms of reaction to the dye and shrinkage. The machines used for garment dyeing are called paddle machines. To avoid entanglement during dyeing, garments are generally placed inside bags. Paddles in the machine rotate, changing directions periodically, to make sure that all pieces being dyed are equally exposed to the dye liquor. Garments are generally washed before dyeing, to remove any finishing materials that would interfere with dyeing, and after dyeing to remove excess dye.

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Process sequence of cutting section in apparel garments industry

Process sequence of cutting section in apparel garments industry

Store ↓ Fabric Fault Checking ↓ Relaxation ↓ Shade Checking ↓ Prepare the fabric in the fabric spreading m/c ↓ Spreading ↓ Marker attachment ↓ Cutting ↓ Numbering ↓ Bundling ↓ Panel Check (QC) ↓
Fault	←     ↔    →				OK
↓			↓ ↓ ↓
Replace Cut
↓
→     →      ←    ← ↓
Solid		←     ↔    →		Not Solid
↓ ↓ ↓			↓
			Print / Embroidery
			↓
→     →      ←    ← ↓
Checking & Counting (QC)
↓
Sewing

Store of Garments:

Garments store is the sector where all the raw material are stored which are need to make a garments. Raw fabric for cutting, which will be processed to garments by cutting, sewing, is kept here until the process starts. This fabric comes from the main factory after knitting and dyeing. Different types of fabrics like Single Jersey, Lycra, fleece, rib etc. There are three sections, Fabric Store, Garments Store, and General Store. In Fabric store all the fabric is being stored. In Garment store, all the items without fabrics that are needed to produce garment is stored. Finally, in General store, all the related things that is needed to run a factory is stored.

In fabric store, normally 250-300 ton fabric comes to store in each day. Now, around 37 ton fabrics are stored. Few days ago, this number was around 100 ton. Cutting department get fabrics from here. There is a Fabrics Requisition sheet where all the information is being written about the fabrics movement from store to cutting section.

Fabric Fault Check out before cutting:

This quality control section is very important before garments cutting. The fabric is roughly checked from dyeing section and then those are sending to garments factory for producing complete garments. Usually very small amount of fault comes from dyeing. Small hole and pin hole are the main fault get in cutting quality check. But a single pin hole in single part of garment could be the cause of rejection of garments and it is a major defect. That’s why a thoroughly checking is done before cutting. Here Fabrics are being checked before going to relaxation section of cutting. Required number of table is preserved for fault checking. Fabric fault like hole, yarn miss, dart etc are being checked. Normally 10% fabric is checked. There are two popular fabric fault checking system is exist. Ten point system and four point system. Usually four point system is very much popular for knitted fabric and ten point system is popular for woven fabric.

Relaxation of fabric for cutting

Normally Fabric came in a roll form. Before sending the fabric for cutting, it is necessary to relax the fabric. Usually fabric comes as the form of role or gathered from textile dyeing section. So the dimensional stability of fabric is relatively lower and it contain crease mark. The fabric is kept in an open place for around 12-24 hours according to fabrics type and buyer requirements. Relaxation time for lycra fabric and pique fabric is around 3 days and minimum 24 hours. For Single Jersey and Fleece fabric, standard relaxation time is 24 hours and minimum time is 12 hours. There are racks to store the fabrics for relaxation.

Shade Checking before cutting:

Shade checking is most important part in cutting section. Before spreading the fabric on the cutting table, relaxed fabric is rechecked for shade variation in time of relaxation. If the fabric is ok then it goes for cutting. If not, then that part of fabric is rejected and transferred for further reprocessing. 

Prepare the fabric in the fabric spreading m/c

The fabric is being gathered in the machine in a small lay form that will be easy to spread the fabric in the fabric cutting table. At least two men are needed to do the job.

Spreading of fabric:

Fabric is spread on the table by spreader machine. One man control the machine and around 6-10 people to adjust the fabric to its specific dimension. Number of layer varies according to the marker length and production needed. More the layer length will be, the more will be the production rate.

Marker attachment

After laying down the specific number of fabric on the cutting table the marker paper is over laid on the fabric. Then the marker paper is attached to the fabric  by some adhesive. 

Cutting

There are cutting man to cut the laid fabrics according to the marker sketch. Normally two men do this job. Generally 10-15 number of laid fabric is being cut.

Numbering

The fabric peaces are being numbered by a labeling machine to identify these peaces in future.

Bundling

All the numbered fabric is then bundled together and send it for checking.

Panel Check (QC)

Here, the fabric is being checked for any fault. There is a sticker with all the information that is needed to identify this bundle in future for further processing like, Date, Buyer, cutting no., size, bundle no, quantity, serial no., color, lot no. In checking normally Cutting no., size, serial no. are checked.

After Panel Check

If there is a fault in the fabric then it send for further processing. If there is some spot in the fabric then it will be washed and if there is hole or some thing that needed to be replaced then is send for replace cutting.

If the garment will be solid then it goes for sewing. But if some fabric peaces needed to be printed or embroidery then it goes for it. After returning from printing or embroidery the fabric is ready for sewing.  

Checking & Counting (QC)

After doing, the entire job in cutting section the fabric is checked and counted. Then, all these peaces go for sewing. Responsible people from sewing department receive the fabric from cutting department.

Sewing

Now, the peaces of fabrics are joined together to make the final product.

All Section Quality Check List of apparel garments industry

All Section Quality Check List of apparel garments industry

1. Cutting Quality Check List:

•           Pattern to Cutting Garments Measurement Check.

•           Fabric diameter Measurement Check.

•           Cutting Lay Check.

•           Fabric Roll to Roll Shade Check.

•           Fabric G.S.M Check.

•           Bundle Mistake Check.

•           Size Mistake Check.

•           Fabric Color Mistake Check.

•           Yarn contaminated Check.

•           Any Fabric Problem Check.

2. Sewing Line quality Check List:

•           Buyer Approved Sample & Measurement Sheet Check.

•           Sample Wise Input Check.

•           Buyer Approved Trims Card Check.

•           Buyer Approved Sample Wise Style Check.

•           All Machine Thread Tension Check.

•           Style Wise Print & Embroidery Placement Check.

•           All Process Measurement Check.

•           All Machine Oil Spot Check.

•           All Process S.P.I Check as Per Buyer Requirement.

•           Input Time Shading, Bundle Mistake & Size Mistake Check.

•           Buyer Approved Wise Contrast Color Check.                                                                           •           As per Buyer Requirement Wise Styling Check.

•           All Machine Stitch Tension Balance Properly.

                                                                                                                                                                      

  3. Sewing Table Quality Check List:

•           Style Wise Garments Check.

•           All Process Measurement Check..

•           Front Part, Back Part, Sleeve & Thread Shading Check.

•           S.P.I Check for All Process.

•           Print/Embroidery Placement Check.

•           Main Label, Care Label, Size Label &Care Symbol Check.

•           Size Mistake Check.

•           All Process Alter Check.

•           Any Fabric Fault /Rejection Check.

4. Finishing Quality Check List:

•           As Per Buyer Requirement Wise Iron Check..

•           Buyer Approved Sample Wise Style Check.

•           Front Part, Back part, Sleeve, Rib Thread & Contrast Color check.

•           Print/Embroidery Quality & Placement Check.

•           All process S.P.I check.

•           Oil Spot/Dirty Spot Check.

•           Main Label Care label & Care Symbol Check.

•           Any Fabric Fault & Fabric Reject Check.

•           All process Measurement Check.

•           Blister Poly & After Poly Getup Check.

•           Hang tag & Price Sticker Check.

•           Assortment Every Carton Pcs Quantity Check.

•           Buyer Requirement Wise Ctn Size, Poly Size, & garments Size Check.

5. Out Side Print & Embroidery Quality Check List:

   

•           Buyer Approved Sample or Artwork Wise Bulk Sample Print & Embroidery Design Check.

•           Size Wise Approved Pattern Placement Check.

•           As per Sample Wise Print Design, Color & Quality Check.

•           Bundle & Size Wise Print/Embroidery Check.

•           Fabric Top Side in Side Check.

•           Print / Embroidery Pattern Placement Check.

•           As Per Sample Wise Print/Embroidery Design, Thread Color Quality Check.

•           Print/Embroidery Color Wise Wash Test Check.

6. Store Quality Check List:

•           Buyer Approved Trims Card Check.

•           Buyer Approved Sample Wise Main, Size & Care Label Check.

•           Buyer Approved Sample Wise Care Symbol Check.

•           Thread Color Shading & Quality Check.

•           Buyer Wise Hang tag & Price Sticker Check.

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Modern textile testing and quality control equipment

Modern textile testing and quality control equipment:

Quality: Quality is the attribute of the products that determines its fitness for use, or according to Japanese Standard (JIS), textile (fibre, polymer, yarn, fabric) quality is all specific properties and performance of a textile product or service that can be evaluated to determine whether a product or services satisfactorily meets the purposes of its uses. The level of quality is measured by “ inherent properties and performances which is the subjects of evaluation or the characteristic related to its phsico-mechanical or chemical properties, dimension, longevity, durability utilization or any other requirement used to define the of the product or service is known as “quality characteristics”.

Standard: It is an agreed document established mainly with respect to technical matters related directly or indirectly to an article or service. So that profit or convenience may be obtained with fairness among the person concerned.

Testing:  The way to control or the way to check or verify the nature & characteristics. Or, the way to checking or verifying.

Modern Fibre or Polymer Quality Testing Equipment:

Fibre characteristics must be classified according to a certain sequence of importance with respect to the end product and the spinning process. Moreover, such quantified characteristics must also be assessed with reference to the following

• What is the ideal value?

• What amount of variation is acceptable in the bale material?

• What amount of variation is acceptable in the final blend?

Textile fibre contains some basic characteristics. 

Following are the basic characteristics of cotton fibre

• Fiber length

• Fineness

• Strength

• Maturity

• Rigidity

• Fiber friction

• Structural features

Name Of The Machine for fibre testing and quality control	Function of the Fibre/ Polymer Quality testing machine
1.HVI (High Volume Instrument)	It’s a very popular fibre characterization and quality testing machine in USA, UK, China, Korea and other countries. It is very cause sensitive and provides perfect fibre quality testing result. 50% span length, 2.5% span length, Uniformity ratio, Mic value, Color grade, Maturity ratio, gm/tex (tenacity), SFI (Short Fibre Index) etc. Suitable for knitted yarn production.
2.AFIS (Advance Fibre Information System)	It is also popular fibre testing machine and very cause sensitive and provides perfect fibre quality testing result. 50% span length, 2.5% span length, Upper half length, Trash%, Neps, Seed coat neps both in number & weight, short fibre content, Maturity ratio, fibre strength etc. Suitable for export woven fabric production.
3.Digital Fibre Graph	It is also popular fibre quality testing equipment and used to measure 50% span length, 2.5% span length, Uniformity ratio.
4.Digital Moisture meter	It is also popular fibre quality testing equipment and used to measure Directly Moisture content % is determined.
5.Trash Selection	It is also popular fibre quality testing equipment and used to measure Trash% in raw cotton is found out.
6.Sling Hygrometer	It is also popular fibre quality testing equipment and used to measure Directly RH% is measured.
7.Precision Polarizing Microscope	Ihis type of testing machine is used for Fibre identified with digital photographs, maturity ratio.
8.Stetometer with Torsion Balance	Bundle fibre strength is measured by this testing machine.
9.Instron	This type of testing machine is rear in used. Single fibre strength is measured (research based) by this testing equipment.

Modern Yarn Quality Testing Equipment:

Yarn is a main element for textile production. Good yarn contains some characteristics. The main characteristics are strength, elongation, hairiness, uniformity, diameter etc.

Name Of The Machine for yarn testing and quality control	Function of the Yarn Quality testing machine
1.Uster Evenness Tester 4&5	This yarn quality testing equipment is used to measure U%, CV%, Imperfection (Thick place /1000m, Thin place/1000m, Neps /1000m), Irregularity index, Relative count, hairiness etc. In case of UT-5 polypropylene content in yarn is also determined recently.
2.Uster Tenso Jet	This yarn quality testing equipment is used to measure  Single yarn strength & Elongation% is determined.
3.Uster Tenso Kind	This yarn quality testing equipment is used to measure Lea strength, Breaking force, Elongation% determined.
4.Uster Tenso Rapid	This yarn quality testing equipment is used to measure Single yarn strength, Lea strength & Fabric strength, Elongation% is determined.
5.Uster Classimat	This yarn quality testing equipment is used to measure Yarn fault in category wise determined (23-27 categories).
6.Auto Cone Winder	This yarn quality testing equipment is used to measure Auto splicing, Slubs removes in running m/c.
7.Uster Auto Sorter	This yarn quality testing equipment is used to measure Rapidly Yarn count, Sliver/Roving hank etc

Modern Fabric Quality Testing Equipment:

Textile fabrics are made for various purpose, each of which has different performance needs. The chemical and physical states of textile fabric identify what will the end use of this, and ultimately whether it is reasonable for a specific use. Fabric testing makes a crucial role in gauging product quality, ensuring regulatory compliance and assessing the perfection of textile materials. It provides information about the physical or structural, chemical and performance properties of the textile. As user become more aware and more demanding of products, the number of tests required for textile fabrics has grown. As a result the testing of fabrics is increasingly varied, in constant flux and full of the unprecedented challenges of globalization. With the onset of modern types of fabrics for the garments factory and of technical textiles for functional applications, and with the growing number of invention taking place in the apparel sector, fabric testing processes have undergone tremendous changes and there is required to realize all the procedures before a testing method is involved to investigate the performance of fabrics. 

Name Of The Machine for fabric testing and quality control	Function of the Fabric Quality testing machine
1.Automatic Pick Counter	Ends/inch & Picks/inch is digitally measured.
2.Universal Titan	Fabric strength, Elongation with printed form.
3.Spectro Photometer/Data    Color	Pass/fail (quality if fabric), Recipe formulation, Grey scale value, Whiteness value, Shade% etc is determined.
4.Wascator	Shrinkage% is determined by programming.
5.Martindile Abrasion &    Pilling tester	Abrasion resistance as well as pill formation on the fabric is determined.
6.Seam Slippage Tester	Seam strength & Elongation % is determined.
7.GSM Cutter with Balance	GSM of the fabric is measured.
8.Color dispenser	Automatically stock solution is prepared according to Programming.
9.Megasol	Light fastness of the dyed fabric is determined digitally.

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Process Wise Quality Defected Point of garments in appeal garments industry

There are many defects introduced to produce a garment in garments industry. The operator of garments pressured to produce a garment by the supervisor. That’s why it is possible to make any quality defects. This quality defects could be classified as critical defect, major defect and minor defect. Critical defect of garments could be summarized as those defective goods that do not comply with buyer’s safety requirements for babies and children’s wear. The major defect of garments could be defined as the defect is noticeable to the customer and visible when using the goods. The defect is not noticeable to the customer and not visible when using it is known as minor defect of garments manufacturing. Only the process wise defect identified in the garments by garments quality controllers is described bellow.

1. Defects in shoulder joint of garments:
  -Curve at Shoulder.
  -Tension loose At Shoulder.
  -Tension Tight At Shoulder.
  -Needle Cut At Shoulder Joint & Top Stitch.
  -Dirty Spot At Shoulder.
  -Shading at Back & Front Part.
  -Thread Shading At Shoulder Joint & Top Stitch.
  -Puckering At Shoulder.
  -Tension Loose At Shoulder Joint.

2. Defects in Neck Rib Joint of garments:
  -Uneven At Neck rib Width.
  -Shading At Neck rib joint.
  -Broken stitch at neck Rib joint.
  -Skip /Drop Stitch At Neck Joint &Top Stitch.
  -Puckering at neck Rib joint.
  -Pleated at neck Rib joint.
  -Needle Cut/ hole at neck Rib joint.
  -Center Out At Main/Size Label.
  -Not Position At Care Label.
  -Size Mistake At Size Label.
  -Tension Loose At Neck Rib Joint.                           

3. Defects in Sleeve joint and Top stitch of garments:
  -Size Mistake At Sleeve.
  -Pleated at Armhole.
  -Needle Cut/ hole at sleeve joint.
  -Shape uneven at sleeve joint.
  -Skipped stitch at sleeve joint.
  -Up-Down at sleeve joint.
  -Up-Down at under Arm Length.
  -Un-Even at arm hole top Stitch.
  -Shading At Sleeve /Back/Front Part.
  -Dirty Spot At Sleeve/ Back & Front Part.
  -Oil Spot At Sleeve /Back & Front Part.
  -Bundle Mistake At Sleeve Back& Front Part.
  -Tension Loosen At Sleeve Joint /Topstitch.

4. Defects in Side Seam of garments:
  -Curve at side Seam.
  -Needle Cut/Hole At Side Seam.
  -Dirty Spot At Side Seam.
  -Oil Spot At Side Seam.
  -Broken stitch at side seam.
  -Drop/Skip stitch at side seam.
  -Up-Down at Armhole Point.
  -Uneven At Side Top Stitch.
  -Tension Loose At Side Seam.

5. Defects in Body Hem & Sleeve Hem of garments:
  -Broken stitch at body Hem.
  -Uneven At Body hem.
  -Needle Cut/Hole At Body Hem.
  -Raw Edge At Body Hem.
  -Skip/drop stitch at body Hem.
  -Dirty / Oil spot at body & sleeve Hem.
  -Tension Loose At Body/Sleeve Hem.

6. Defects in Cuff joint make & Top stitch of garments:   
  -Skip / Drop at cuff make stitch.
  -Uneven at cuff topsin/ top stitch.
  -Uneven At cuff joint.
  -Point Up-Down at cuff joint.
  -Skip/ Drop at cuff joint top Stitch.
  -Shape uneven at cuff.
  -Size mistake at cuff.
  -Pair Mistake at cuff.
  -Oil Spot At Cup.
  -Dirty Spot At Cup.
  -Tension Loose At Joint/Top stitch.

7. Defects in Collar Joint Top sine & Make of garments:
  -Drop stitch at collar make /joint/ Top stitch.
  -Up-Down at collar point.
  -Uneven at notch point.
  -Up-Down at hala point.
  -Uneven at band top stitch.
  -Uneven at collar shape.
  -Tension Loose At Collar Joint/Make/ Top stitch.
  -Drop Stitch At Band Top stitch.                                       

8. Defects in Placket Joint & Topsin (Top stitch) of garments:
  -Slanted at Placket joint.   
  -Placket is not middle on garments.
  -Up-Down at Placket notch.
  -Uneven at Placket box.
  -Displace at button.
  -Tension Loose At Placket Joint & Topstitch.
  -Dirty Spot At Placket.
  -Oil Spot At Placket.

9. Defects in Button holing and button attach of garments:
  -Half stitch at button.
  -Fals stitch at button.
  -Insiquite button.
  -Reject at button.
  -Style Mistake At Button.
  -Tension Loose At Button Stitch.
  -Spot On Button.

10. Defects in Shoulder to Shoulder Back Tape of garments:   
  -Lop uneven at back tape.
  -Not Middle at back tape top stitch.
  -Broken stitch at back tape.
  -Drop stitch at back Tape.
  -Raw edge at back Tape.
  -Spot On Back Tape.                                        

11. Others Defect Point in Garments:
  -Running shade On Fabrics.
  -Yarn Contaminated On Fabrics.
  -Crease / Dia mark On Garments.
  -Back part Front part shade.
  -Slanted at V point.
  -Raw Edge at bottom.
  -Raw edge at sleeve hem.
  -Up Down at loop.
  -Displace at GSM  Hi-Low.
  -Ties Up –Down.
  -Uncut Thread.
  -Shading at Thread.

11. PC / Trim Card Follow:
  -Bulk Production time M/B follow this PC Card.
  -Fabric Color Check.
  -Thread Color Check.
  -Care, Main & Size label Check.
  -Twill Tape Check.
  -Mobilon tape Check.

12. Machine Adjustment:
  -Bulk Production time all machine S/B Adjust.
  -Machine Adjustments is the main subject make your good Garments.
You con read RELATED TOPICS for more information.
Garments defects and production procedure...........................

PRODUCTION MANAGEMENT SYSTEMS IN TEXTILE INDUSTRY

Production management system in textile industry is very much important term. Proper production management system ensure the production quality, production time and production costs. A well skilled production management system ensures quality product according to byres requirements.  The presence, in factories, of highly intelligent, local control systems has favored the development of production management systems. Nearly all process controller producers also offer surveillance systems that centralize data relating to checks carried out on the machine and allow various levels of interaction in production management system. There is now a very wide range of production management software functions available, and new developments are emerging all the time in various areas as a result of greater contact between software designers and users in the textile sector.
These areas include:
- Production planning
- Planning of production start-up (availability, requirements in terms of human resources and machines, etc.)
- Production Management of dyeing and finishing cycles
- Plant and single machine surveillance, remote acquisition and saving of key physical parameters, log record of alarms
- Plant and machine synoptic alarms (sometimes interactive)
- Records of orders and work carried out of production
- Recipe and cycle sequence management
- Management of dyestuffs and auxiliaries warehouse
- Statistical analysis of production
- Quality control-based classifications
- Tracking of single batches, i.e., the keeping of records of the different dyeing and finishing stages so as to make it possible in the future, in the event of disputes or problems, to trace the history of a piece
- Link-ups with ERP systems, for the transmission of data relating to technical operations of interest to the accounts department.

The application of information technology to production in the textile sector is similar, in many regards, to its application in most other manufacturing sectors of textile or apparel factory.
In particular:
• Information technology is taken out of the IT centre, and distributed throughout the mill, making it possible to present/access data wherever they are needed or generated for production management;
• Purely administrative functions are supported, more and more, by out-and-out automation functions: management and processing of organizational-type data, but also technological data relating to production of factory;
• Batch processes (data processing operations carried out by the computer at the end of which one obtains: balance sheets, production plans, warehouse status, etc.) are replaced by real-time applications, which make it possible, through one of the terminals linked up with the computer, to access and update records immediately;
• There is a growing need to integrate the processing of information relating to areas that are distinct from, but connected with, one another: design, technological definition of processes, machine preparation, planning of resources, etc.

Textile companies want the adoption of IT systems in the production environment to generate a greater and greater rationalization of production management system, and to reduce errors and waste in textile industry. The requirements of a textile company, as regards its information system, can be broken down into three areas:
1. Company management: at this level, information systems are needed for the working out of production plans, the checking of results and the working out of sales and cost plans.

2. Function management: For function management system, they are required to respond to the need to determine the production plan and flow. In particular, they help in the processing of orders, converting them into processing instructions for individual departments, stages or machines. They make it possible to optimize batches on the basis of resources and technological parameters, even simulating the production chain so as to optimize production speeds and balance workloads among machines.

3. Process management: For process management system, they serve to tune the numerous technical regulation and programming procedures that are involved in the production process. In this stage, information systems make it possible to gather all the basic data needed for control and function planning activities.

Benefits of production management system
 -Integration of different areas (resource planning, designing, recipe preparation, machine programming, cost control)
 -Better customer service in terms of order status and delivery times (shorter)
 -Reduction of errors
 -Increased company flexibility
 -Greater control over the company’s overall activity
 -Reduction of stocks
 -Reduction of downtime
 -Process repeatability

Limitation of production management system
 -Modification of the modus operandi (which results in the need to standardize procedures and train staff)
 -Standardization problems (due to control systems that are often incompatible with one another)
 -Poor product customization

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