Ring Spinning

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Ring Spinning 

The ring spinning could be defined, the process of manufacturing yarn with flying ring.

The ring spinner is made up of the following parts: 

Ring spinning 

1. Spools on which the roving is wound 

2. A series of drafting rollers through which the roving passes 

3. A guiding ring or eyelet 

4. A stationary ring around the spindle 

5. A traveler-a small, V-shaped clip on the ring 

6. A spindle 

7. A bobbin 

The roving is fed from the spool through the drafting rollers. The rollers elongate the roving, which passes through the eyelet, moving down and through the traveler. The traveler moves freely around the stationary ring. The spindle turns the bobbin at a constant speed. This turning of the bobbin and the movement of the traveler impart the twist to the yarn. The yarn is twisted and wound onto a bobbin in one operation. 

Bobbins must be removed from the machine when full. From here, bobbins are transported to a winding machine where yarn is wound onto packages. Automated systems for doffing and winding have been developed and are widely used. Winding is considered an important step. It provides an opportunity to condition yarn that is, to bring the yarn into equilibrium with the moisture in the atmosphere, and to add wax or other coatings that will facilitate weaving. Winding also allows the identification of flaws in the yarn and formation of larger yarn packages than the spindles on the ring spinning frame. 

1. The value and character of a yarn are determined by 

• Kind and quality of fibers 

• Amount of processing necessary to produce fineness. 

• Amount of twist, which increases tensile strength in the finished yarn. 

2. The purpose of the yarn must be anticipated, as this determines the number and kind & many manufacturing operations. 

3. The formation of yarn from staple fibers by shinning becomes possible when they have surfaces capable of cohesiveness. This quality is exemplified by the natural twist of the cotton fibers, which enables them to entwine around each other, the roughness of the linen fibers, which cause them to cling together, and the scale on the surface of the wool fibers, which cause them to graph each other. 

4. Flexibility permits the fibers to be twisted around one another. 

5. Uniformity & staple give yarn a required evenness & improve the quality. 

Yarn Twist due to ring spinning:

The amount of twist is an important factor in finished consumers’ goods. It determines the appearance as well as the durability and serviceability of a fabric. Fine yarns require more twist than coarse yarns. Warp yarns, which are used for the lengthwise threads in woven fabrics, are given more twist than are filling yarns, which are used for the crosswise threads. To retain the twist in the yarns and prevent any tendency to untwist or kink, the yarns are given a twist-setting finish with heat or moisture, depending upon the kind of fiber used. The direction of twist may be observed by holding the yarn in a vertical position. If the spirals conform to the direction of the slope of the central part of the letter S, the yarn has an S twist; if they conform to the slope of the letter Z, the yarn has a Z twist. 

Yarn Count maintain with ring spinning:

In the spinning process, there is always a fixed relation between the weight of the original quantity of fiber and the length of the yarn produced from that amount of raw material. 

This relation indicates the thickness of the yarn. It is determined by the extent of the drawing process and is designated by numbers, which are called the yarn count. 

The International Organization for Standardization (ISO) fixed relationship between the weight and length of all yarns: one tex equals 1 gram (g) per kilometer. The greater the weight, the thicker the yarn, and consequently the higher the tex number Because of the speed limitations in ring spinning, researchers concentrated on developing techniques for inserting twist into yarns that would permit more rapid production. A result of this search was the introduction, in the 1960s, of the open-end spinning machine, which operated at higher speeds but produced a yarn with slightly different characteristics than conventional ring-spun yarns with ring spinning.

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Rotor spinning; Open-End Spinning

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Self twist spinning or Open-End Spinning 

Open-end spinning omits the step of forming the roving. Instead, a sliver of textile fibers is fed into the spinning machine spinner by a stream of air. The sliver is delivered to a rotary beater that separates the fibers into a thin stream. It is carried into the rotor by a current of air through a duct and is deposited in a V-shaped groove along the outer edge of the rotor. Twist is provided by the turning of the rotor. 

Fibers fed to the rotor are incorporated into the rapidly rotating “open end” of a previously formed yarn that extends out of the delivery tube; hence, the name open- end spinning. As the fibers join the yarn, which is constantly being pulled out of the delivery rube, twist from the movement of the rotor is conveyed to the fibers. A constant stream of new fibers enters the rotor, is distributed in the groove, and is removed at the end of the formed yarn, becoming part of the yarn itself. 

The fineness of the yarn is determined by the rate at which it is drawn out of the rotor relative to the rate at which fibers are being fed into the rotor. In other words, if fewer fibers are being fed in while fibers are being withdrawn rapidly, a thinner yarn will result, and vice versa. The twist is determined by the ratio of the rotor turning speed to the linear or withdrawal speed of the yarn (that is, the higher the speed of the rotor, the greater the twist). 

Theoretically, a variety of different means may be used to form the yarn and insert twist. These have been divided into the following categories: mechanical spinning (of which rotor spinning is an example), electrostatic spinning, fluid spinning, air spinning, and friction spinning. Of these, only rotor and friction open-end spinning machines have been commercialized and most of the open-end spinning machines now in use are of the mechanical rotor spinning type Friction open-end spinning machines are also available. 

Friction spinning systems use friction to insert twist. A mixture of air and fibers is fed to the surface of a moving, perforated drum. Suction holds the fibers against the surface while a second drum rotates in the opposite direction. Twist is inserted and the yarn begins forming as the fibers pass between the two drums. The newly forming yarn is added to the open end of an already formed yarn, and the completed yarn is continuously drawn away. 

The advantages of open-end spinning are that it increases the speed of production, eliminates the step of drawing out the roving before spinning, and permits finished yarns to be wound on any sized bobbin or spool. As a result, it is less expensive. It produces yarns of more even diameter than does ring spinning. Yarns are more uniform in diameter, bulkier, rougher, more absorbent, and less variable in strength than are ring-spun yarns. 

Fabrics made from open-end spun yarns compared with ring spun yarns are more uniform and more opaque in appearance, lower in strength, less likely to pill, and inferior in crease recovery. A number of sources indicated that they are more subject to abrasion. 

Neither friction nor rotor spinning will produce yarns as fine and strong as ring- spun yarns, although recent advances have extended the range of yarn sizes possible. Open-end spun yarns have a handle that has been characterized as “harsh.” Some of the kinds of products that seem to be especially well suited to the use of open-end spun yarns are in filling yarns for fabrics where yarn strength is not a factor, toweling pile yarns, denim, and heavier weights of bed sheeting. The yarns even surface makes them desirable as base fabrics for plastic-coated materials. On the other hand, the more acceptable feel of ring-spun yarns has led knitwear manufacturers to prefer them, and they are better for fine blends of polyester and cotton.

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PRINTING METHDOS AND PROCESS MODIFICATIONS

PRINTING PROCESS MODIFICATIONS 

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Heat Transfer Roller Printing 

Like traditional roller printing, heat transfer printing is done by passing the fabric around a central drum or cylinder where it contacts a roller for transferring the design. The roller is followed by a heating zone to effect the sublimation of the dye. Since all colors are applied to the fabric at the same time, 

however, the operation is simpler with lower processing costs and fewer personnel required. Production can change rapidly from one design to another simply by changing the design paper, whereas in roller or screen printing, each separate roller or screen moved from the machine and the machine set up for a new design with different rollers or screens. Short runs are feasible, fast deliveries are possible, given shorter time for processing, and companies need not keep costly inventories of fabric in stock. On the other hand, heat transfer printing is slower than is either roller or screen printing. 10 to 15 meters of printed fabric are produced per minute in transfer printing operations. 

Heat transfer printing has proved especially successful in printing knitted fabrics. Knitted goods are less dimensionally stable than are woven fabrics. Manufacturers using conventional screen and roller printing techniques on knit fabrics experienced difficulties in making multicolor prints in which the segments of the print must fit together accurately. In transfer printing, all parts of the design are applied at once, eliminating the problem of fabrics stretching as they move from one roller to another. 

Losses of fabric through faulty printing are substantially lower during heat transfer printing than are losses in conventional roller printing. Energy requirements are also lower. Garments and garment pieces can be printed, and precise placement of decorative motifs on a completed garment is possible 

Transfer Printing 

Literally moving a design from one surface to another is known as transfer printing. A typical well-known technique is that of iron-on prints of emblems and decorations, which are generally made of pigments in a paraffin or thermoplastic base that can be melted and bound by heat and pressure onto a fabric surface. These pigment transfers are not very satisfactory because they make the cloth stiff and are not fast to laundering or light. A more sophisticated and effective method of transfer printing is that of transferring a design intact by vaporizing it from the paper to a fabric. There have evolved two principal processes: dry heat transfer and wet heat transfer 

Heat Transfer Printing 

Heat transfer printing, or sublimation printing, is a system in which dyes are printed onto a paper base and then transferred from the paper to a fabric. The transfer of colors takes place as the color vaporizes or “sublimes.” Transfer printing is achieved by rolling or pressing the paper and the fabric together under pressure and at high temperatures (424°F or 200°e). Sublimation printing achieves a sharpness and clarity that other types of printing cannot match. One disadvantage of heat transfer printing, however, is off-grain printing. Some dyes used on nylons and acrylics have displayed variations in shade depth and, in some cases, problems with fastness to laundering. Heat transfer printing also consumes a large quantity or print paper that cannot be reused and may present a disposal problem. Transfer printing can also be used to apply designs to garments such as T-shirts and jackets. Often the design is comprised of pigment colors on a paper sheet. When this is placed on the textile item and a hot press is applied the pigments adhere to the fabric in the design pattern. The design area is usually somewhat stiffer than the rest of the fabric. 

Initially, heat transfer dyes were disperse dyes mostly effective on nylons and polyesters. Disperse dyes can also be used on acrylics, triacetates, and polyester and cotton blends where the proportion of polyester is relatively high. In the early 1990s development of several alternative processes have extended heat transfer printing to silk, cotton and other cellulosic fabrics, and wool.

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