Saturday, January 12, 2013

TEXTILE ECONOMICS; Cost Terminology, Classification and Basic concepts

Cost and Cost Terminology: 
Cost is a resource sacrificed or forgone to achieve a specific objective. It is usually measured as the monetary amount that must be paid to acquire goods and services. A cost must not be confused with an expense, that is that part of costs of the goods or services that has been used up in the process of generating revenues. Actual Cost is the cost incurred (a historical cost) as distinguished nom budgeted costs. 

Cost Object is any activity, product, service or other item for which we can make a separate cost measurement. Examples would include a product, sales area, TV advertising campaign, employee, delivery van etc. 

Costs Classification 
Costs may be analysed into: Manufacturing costs (factory/ production) - Direct: labour, materials and variable overhead Indirect: manufacturing support Non-manufacturing costs - Selling and Marketing, Distribution, Research and Development Finance, General & Administrative 

Handout: Cost classification 
There are two basic stages of accounting for costs: 
1) Cost Accumulation: the collection of cost data in some organised way based on some natural classification such as materials or labour, using an accounting system. 
2) Cost Assignment: involves 
(a) tracing accumulated costs to one or more cost objects; and 
(b) allocating/apportioning accumulated costs to one or more cost objects such as activities, departments, products, customers etc. 

Handout: Basic cost concepts: 
Cost Assignment Methods
Traceability is the ability to assign a cost directly to a cost object in an economically feasible way using a causal relationship. Tracing is the assignment of costs to cost objects using either an observable measure of the cost object s resource consumption or factors that allegedly capture the causal relationship. “ Drivers are factors that cause changes in resource usage, activity usage, costs and revenues. Resource drivers measure the demands placed on resources by activities and are used to assign the cost of resources to activities by allocation and apportionment. 

For example, factory rates apportioned by floor space or supervisor time allocated to different production departments. 

Resource drivers also allocate/apportion service activities to production activities. Activity drivers measure the demands placed on activities by cost objects and are used to assign the cost of activities to cost objects. For example, the number of inspection hours used to assign the cost of inspection to individual products, or machine hours as a basis for absorbing departmental indirect costs. 

Direct tracing is the process of assigning costs to cost objects based on physically observable causal relationships (direct materials and labour). 

Driver tracing is assigning costs using drivers, which are causal factors. Often this means that costs are first traced to activities using resource drivers and then to cost objects using activity drivers. The driver approach relies on identification of factors that allegedly capture the causal relationship. 

Handout: Functional cost classification 
All costs can broadly be classified into manufacturing and non-manufacturing costs. Manufacturing costs include all costs of converting raw materials into completed products and non-manufacturing costs are all costs other than manufacturing costs. Manufacturing costs can further be divided into direct costs and indirect costs. 
• direct costs of a cost object are those that are related to a given cost object (product, department. etc.) and that calibe traced to it in an economically feasible way. Direct costs can be divided into direct materials and direct labour (and possibly direct expenses). 
• indirect costs are related to the particular cost object but cannot be traced to it in an economicallyfeasible way instead the costs are allocated to cost objects. 
Identifying product costs for a manufacturing firm 

There are typically two major cost elements: 
• Direct costs 
• Indirect overhead Cost 
The direct costs include direct materials, labour and expenses. 
The overhead costs include indirect material, labour and expenses split between: 
• Establishment costs (expenses incurred in providing the product or service environment [factory overheads] 
• Selling and Distribution costs (all costs of marketing and distributing the product); Administration costs (all costs of directors, managers and administrators and their associated expenses in terms of office overheads) 
• Finance costs (all costs of borrowed capital including interest and expenses incurred in raising funds) For product costs we are concerned with direct costs and establishment costs. 

Direct vs. indirect materials 
The cost of those materials and components that can be directly and conveniently traced to a unit of product are called direct materials (e.g. steel, windscreen-wipers or gearbox In a car). _Materials not directly traceable, and those extremely small in monetary value, are typically called indirect materials (e.g. dishwasher detergent in a fast-food restaurant, oil for production equipment, rags for cleaning or screws in a furniture factory) 

Direct VS. indirect labour 
The costs of production labour that can be directly and conveniently traced to a unit of product are called direct labour (e.g. workers on an assembly line, or chef in a restaurant) is direct labour, while labour costs that are not directly traceable, or those extremely small in monetary value, are typically called indirect labour (e.g. storekeepers, foremen, or secretaries) 

Production/factory/manufacturing overheads 
All costs related to the manufacturing operations, except for direct materials and direct labour, are called production/factory/ manufacturing overhead. Examples of such costs include, factory rent, factory rates, factory heating and lighting, depreciation of plant and equipment, insurance of the factory, and store costs.

Water Pollution Reduction in the Textile Industry

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Why was the project undertaken? 
During the 1970’s Hammarsdale was being developed as an industrial Hub to provide employment in KwaZulu. The textile industry in particular was being attracted to the area. The Department of Water Affairs and Forestry constructed the Hammarsdale Waste Water Treatment Works (HWWTW) to service the new industrial hub. There was poor environmental planning for the expanding Hammarsdale Hub. Because of this the quality of water in the Sterkpruit River was declining and the organic capacity of the HWWTW was at its limit. The effluent discharged by companies to the HWWTW was in certain circumstances highly corrosive and in one instance led to sewerage pipes being damaged and requiring replacement. Inlet screens designed to remove excessive materials were producing 25 cubic meters of waste per week that had to be disposed of at a low hazard waste disposal site. 

The high strength organic coloured effluents from the textile industries together with that arising from a chicken abattoir overloaded the works thus resulting in the colouration of the Sterkspruit River. This pollution was exacerbated since the treatment works was not designed to remove salts from the textile industries, which passed directly through the works into the River. Unfortunately the salt issue remains a problem but two companies, Gelvenor and Dano Textiles are investigating recycling their effluent and implementing cleaner production technologies to reduce the load. 

In 1982 Umgeni Water took over the HWWTW who assisted the University of Natal to deal with the issue of capacity by involving the Hammarsdale Industrial Conservancy in a campaign to persuade industry to reduce industrial waste loads. These efforts to minimise waste and encourage cleaner production resulted in energy, water and effluent treatment savings, but still there was little improvement in the quality of effluent delivered to HWWTW. At this stage Umgeni Water was applying an effluent tariff at a flat rate, which did not account for effluent strength. As a result there was no legal or financial incentive to reduce effluent loads. 


What Processes were undertaken? 

The incorporation of Hammarsdale and the nearby township of Mpumalanga into eThekwini Municipality and the Water Services Act of 1997 were significant factors leading to the reduction of effluent load. The Water Services Act stipulated that Municipalities were to become Water Services Authorities. Etekwini Municipality chose to own and operate Hammarsdale WWTW and having by-laws to support the collection of sewerage rates and to levy an additional charge for high strength effluent. 

The by-laws required that companies discharging to the Hammarsdale WWTW were permitted. A cooperative agreement between the Norwegian Pollution Control Authority and eThekwini Municipality led to the development of a five year integrated pollution control permit. The permit set targets for effluent colour. The permit also placed stress on waste minimisation / source control techniques which would reduce the salinity and therefore the electrical conductivity (a unit used for the measurement of the salt content of water) of discharged effluent. 

This approach to tariffs and pollution control permits was the innovative spark which led to the accelerated development of waste minimisation / source control techniques which could ensure that the effluent from the textile industry was at an acceptable standard. 

The development of the waste minimisation / source control technology, which was installed at Gelvenor, was funded by the European Union and the Water Research Commission. Gelvenor was identified since it was an ISO 14001 compliant company and, together with the potential trade effluent incentives was the most likely to succeed. This was an important decision, as the area needed a successful example to market the idea of cleaner production and better environmental controls. 

Project Description This project has two main components. The first is the five-year integrated pollution control permit, which sets targets for effluent colour, electrical conductivity and places stress on waste minimisation / source control techniques. 

The second component was the development of the waste minimisation / source control technology, which could benefit companies through reduced tariffs. In Gelvenor’s case this led to a reduction of chemicals, water and electricity in the production processes, and the discolouration of water was addressed through coagulation and settlement of the dyestuff in its effluent. 

What Positives have resulted from this project? 
Positives Hammarsdale Industrial township is now on the road to becoming more economically and environmentally sustainable. This has happened for various reasons. 

Firstly, the cost of utilities has been reduced to companies. Once cleaner production technology has been installed in the textile industry this can lead to reduced water use because consumption can be reduced if the treated effluent is recycled. For example, recycled water can be used in cooling towers and in air conditioning plants and this could lead to a savings of 40% on water. Further uses for the recycled water will be for dying, in toilets and for cooking. 

Because the quality of the effluent has improved, Gelvenor is being charged at a lower tariff, which can lead to a savings of R100, 000 per month. Using the same incentive scheme Rainbow Chickens also reduced its wasted load by 50%. This means that there is 25% less waste to treat at the works and therefore eThekwini, does not have to extend HWWTW with massive savings. The use of the cleaner production technology has released capacity at HWWTW, which can now be used to extend sanitation to approximately 8500 households in nearby Mpumalanga. 

The financial and environmental sustainability of certain companies has improved due to reduced water bills and effluent disposal costs yet improving environmental controls. These savings would more than finance the cleaner production technology at a rate of R4.5 million per annum. Gelvenor’s profit margin would increase after paying off the equipment cost over five years but Rainbow would recoup its costs in less than two. 

Because water effluent is cleaner the ecosystems of the Sterkspruit River and the Shongweni Dam will automatically improve. This will also improve the sustainability of farming in the immediate area and nature reserve surrounding Shongweni Dam will also have cleaner water input. 

Negatives: 
The only negative is that it is difficult to address the salt issue since technology for salt removal from water is extremely expensive. Two companies however are investigating the salt removal and re-use of the water. 

What were the most important lessons learnt in this project? 

Co-operative governance really works. Because of the shortage of skills national and local government teamed up with international experts, local academics and parastatal organizations in order to address a common goal. No action by an individual organization would have succeeded on its own. Stakeholder collaboration need not be on a formal basis provided that the goal is clear, but does require a champion. 

Stakeholder collaboration can extend the use of the technology. 

-The University of KwaZulu-Natal is researching with Water Research Commission funding the re-use of saline effluents from textile mills. 

-Dano Textiles is investigating cutting-edge technology using nitrogen blankets in its dye-baths to reduce the quantity of sodium hydrosulphite and thus the salt content of its effluent. 

-Dye-bath effluent treatment trials have been launched using excess anaerobic sludge digestion capacity at Mpumulanga wastewater works. 

The cost of technology can be prohibitive. De-salination technology, despite major strides still remains a prohibitively expensive means of treating textile mill effluent. Farming still remains a problem because of salinity issues but the aesthetics and the organic contamination from Hammarsdale would improve.
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Friday, January 11, 2013

Warp Knitting, Production of warp knitted fabric

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Knitted fabrics are divided into two general types: (1) those produced by weft knitting, where one continuous yarn forms courses across the fabric; (2) those produced by warp knitting, where a series of yarns forms wale’s in the lengthwise direction of the fabric. 

Warp Knitting 
This form of knitting is very different from standard hand knitting; the earliest warp knitting machine was Crane’s tricot machine (England), built about 1775. In warp knitting, a yarn is fed to each needle from the lengthwise direction. A bar guiding the yarns to the needles can move from side to side, or to the front or back of the needle, so that the loops can be interlocked in a zigzag pattern. Very wide (over 400 cm, nearly 170 in.), flat fabric can be produced by warp knitting, at speeds in the order of 1,000 courses per minute, giving almost 3 m2/min (3.6 sq. yds./min). The two main machine (fabric) types are tricot and raschel. 
Diagram of simple warp knit fabric. 

Tricot warp knitted fabric: Tricot is a machine with one needle bar (spring beard type) and one to three guide bars, +0 3++most are two-bar or three-bar. The spring beard needle, accepting mainly filament yarns, has limited the depth of texture that can be achieved in tricot fabrics; some fine spun tricot, produced on machines with hybrid needles, was introduced many years ago, but does not seem to have taken hold in the market place. Tricot does not ravel, can curl somewhat, and has almost no stretch or “give” lengthwise but a little crosswise. 

Raschel warp knitted fabric: Raschel is the other main warp-knitting machine. Fabric from these machines may be of any weight or thickness from lace to carpet; the one feature they share is a pillar-and-inlay effect; Wales like hand crochet chains forming the “pillar” with other yarns laid in to form patterns or the main body of the fabric, usually making up the right side. Raschel machines have one or two needle bars (usually latch, but may be spring beard), set horizontally on wide or narrow machines with 1 to over 30 guide bars. The multi guide bar types are used mostly for laces; most of our moderate-priced laces are knit on this type of machine. They do not have the depth of texture that the twisted Leavers laces or the embroidered Schiffli laces have. Powernet, knit on the raschel machine, incorporates elastomeric yarn to give one- or two-way power stretch for contour fashion Variations on raschel-type machines include crochet, ketten raschel, and Cidega machines. The latter, similar to raschel, can knit various fabrics side by side, and so is used for many narrow trims called “braids,” such as gimp and ball fringe. 

Minor Warp Knits: Simplex is a machine with two horizontal needle bars and two guide bars, producing a double tricot type of warp knit in a fine gauge, with two threads to each loop. The needles in one bar are directly behind those in the other, in much the same way that needles in the weft knit interlock are aligned; like interlock, simplex looks like plain-stitch jersey on both sides. The fabric is very firm and stable, used for its greater firmness in lounge wear, uniforms, and gloves.
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