TINTING WITH WHITE DISCHARGE EFFECT ON DENIM GARMENTS

TINTING:
Coloration that produces a very pale shade. A tint usually represents the minimum amount of color that will give perceptible appearance of coloration. In yarn processing, fugitive tints are used for identification, and then removed in wet processing.

Tinting (also called over-dyeing) Laundries often tint denim to try to make it look more vintage, or to achieve a different cast. The telltale signs of a pair of jeans that have been tinted are that the pocket lining and labels are dyed as well as the jeans.

TINTING WITH WHITE DISCHARGE EFFECT ON DENIM GARMENTS

The standard route to blasting/discharging/tinting is quite elaborate, in the light of three effects to be imparted on the same garment. There have been short cuts, which may be right/wrong/ingenious. If tinting is done on blasted/discharged areas, it obviously remains a spray method. However, if the tinting is overall, it follows the dyeing route. The process starts on gray garment being hand blasted followed by desizing and biopolishing. After drying the garment, tint-spray is given followed by air/machine drying and finishing. For tinting by dyeing method, the biopolished garment can straight away go for tinting wet-on-wet followed by finishing and drying.
In case of white discharge tinting the route would start with desizing-biopolishing on gray garment, peroxide bleaching after biopolishing being optional. After drying the garment, a potassium permanganate spray is given to areas where white discharge is aimed at. After air-drying for about 10-15 minutes, a neutralization step consisting of provide-acetic acid is given which is followed by hot and cold rinses. In case of spray tinting the garment will have to be dried first, whereas for overall tinting, dyeing the method could be followed wet-on-wet. Finally the finishing and drying would complete the process.

BEFORE TINTING WITH WHITE DISCHARGE EFFECT ON DENIM GARMENTS

AFTER TINTING WITH WHITE DISCHARGE EFFECT ON DENIM GARMENTS

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Sewing machine; Comparison between Pegasus sewing machine and Yamato sewing machine.

Pegasus and Yamato are the world class brand, both company are produce world class sewing machine. Both company have Single needle lockstitch sewing machine, 2 needle lockstitch sewing machine, Overlock sewing machine, Flatlock sewing machine, Feed of the arm sewing machine,Button hole and button attach sewing machine and many more. I am going to compare between Pegasus sewing machine and Yamato garments sewing machine. 

Sewing Machine type	Pegasus  Sewing Machine	Yamato   Sewing Machine
Over lock/ neck join Sewing Machine	Normal neck join sewing machine of Pegasus is easy to operate and handle. It is easy to learn for an operate. Production rate high.	To install neck sewing machine joint three persons (technical manager, sr. service engineer, service engineer) take three days. From this point of I think that mechanical function of m/c this difficult and which may take long time to repair (if necessary) for a mechanics. Beside this it difficult to an operator to operate and production rate is lower than others.
Over lock m/c	Normal over lock of Pegasus is easy to operate. Its motor speed is high & production rate is also high. Over lock width can be increase at maximum label. It can fulfill every buyer requirement.	This  sewing machine is good. It can be easily operate and user friendly. Its production rate is less than others but its production quality is good. If it is in operation, alter quantity will be reduced.
Flat lock m/c or bottom hem m/c	Motor speed is high. Easy to operate. Production rate is also high (230-260 pcs)/hr.	For bottom hem operation always needs to keep hand above the m/c bed which makes an operator uncomfortable. If operator keeps hand below then body hem cut, hem makes with raw-edge & sometimes occurs puckering. And its production rate is less then others (170-200 pcs)/hr.
Back tape m/c	Pegasus has no back tape sewing machine.	This  sewing machine is good enough for back tape attach than others. But technical manager told that this m/c can not be idle i.e. by adding extra parts or accessories it can be used for body hem, neck t/s, arm hole t/s etc. But they did not show it.

If thread cut in Yamato sewing machine it requires spanner to wear thread and time consuming but in others m/c no spanner to wear thread, which save time. Personally I have talked to maintenance manager of Inter Stop and Dulal Brothers about Yamato sewing machine. They told me that Pegasus sewing machine is better than Yamato sewing machine because parts of this machine are not available, costly and can be purchased from their agent.

Work measurement; A systematic way of work study

work measurement:

Work study is scientific method which ensure measurement of work content of a job and takes recourse to better method of doing it and thus realizes the best utilization of human machinery and other resource of an organization. Work measurement is very important part of work study and productivity improvemant.

Work measurement used to determine:

- Time required to complete one element of operation or

-Amount of work that can be performed by one operator in a specific segment of Time

Work Measurement Techniques are:

1.) Time Study

2.) Judgment or past experience of the engineer / production manager

3.) Predetermined Time systems

4.) Standard Data

5.) Operator Reporting

6.) Work Sampling

1.) Time Study

Time study is a systematic technique for determining the amount of time required for a qualified, well trained person, working at a normal pace to perform a specific operation. The person conducting the study is a Time Study Analyst But one thing needs to be remembered, and that is that in any situation that requires one person to determine how much work is fair to expect from another person, hard feelings may result. Hence a Time Study Analyst has a task of great responsibility.

2.) Pre-determined Motion Time Systems (PMTS)

Production Standards are established for new styles before the style goes into production The basis is historical data for hundreds of replications of basic motions and elemental times that have been averaged and converted to standard times for a specific motion. The rates are based on the time taken to execute a method. The method of motion sequence is established first, and the time value or rate is identified for the motion specified. Operation specifications identify the specific method that an operator is expected to follow.

GSD, Mod Sew are example of PMTS they identify times values for specific motions required in garment production and are available as computer software that garment manufacturers can purchase.

3.) Judgment

• Time Study may be, time consuming and costly

• For small orders a style may not be in production long enough for Time Study

• This can provide only approximate values

4.) Standard Data (Garment Synthetics)

Firms may also collect their own data for repetitive operations with similar characteristics and develop their own standard data sets for specific operations used in the same way as predetermined motion-time data except that the data sets are specific to the firms quality standards, equipments and procedures.

Standard data may be developed for:

• Operations,

• Components,

• Styles, and

• Used for preliminary costing and design decisions as well as cost estimating.

5.) Operator Reporting

Relates to the volume completed during the time spent. There are no specified methods or output expectation. The amount of work completed in a specific time frame is often inconsistent and may be unreliable. This type of work measurement provides very little information and little incentive for increasing work efficiency.

6.) Work Sampling

It is a work measurement method that is not concerned with how fast a unit is completed but rather which machines are used and activities pursued the job over an established period of time. When production standards are needed for operations that are not highly repetitive, work sampling is a good choice.

 -Determines the activities involved

 -Amount of time spent on the various activities

 -Equipments used.

Thus the managers can estimate the production of time a worker is engaged in work activity. The proportion can then be used as a performance standard.

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