Process Wise Quality Defected Point of garments in appeal garments industry

There are many defects introduced to produce a garment in garments industry. The operator of garments pressured to produce a garment by the supervisor. That’s why it is possible to make any quality defects. This quality defects could be classified as critical defect, major defect and minor defect. Critical defect of garments could be summarized as those defective goods that do not comply with buyer’s safety requirements for babies and children’s wear. The major defect of garments could be defined as the defect is noticeable to the customer and visible when using the goods. The defect is not noticeable to the customer and not visible when using it is known as minor defect of garments manufacturing. Only the process wise defect identified in the garments by garments quality controllers is described bellow.

1. Defects in shoulder joint of garments:
  -Curve at Shoulder.
  -Tension loose At Shoulder.
  -Tension Tight At Shoulder.
  -Needle Cut At Shoulder Joint & Top Stitch.
  -Dirty Spot At Shoulder.
  -Shading at Back & Front Part.
  -Thread Shading At Shoulder Joint & Top Stitch.
  -Puckering At Shoulder.
  -Tension Loose At Shoulder Joint.

2. Defects in Neck Rib Joint of garments:
  -Uneven At Neck rib Width.
  -Shading At Neck rib joint.
  -Broken stitch at neck Rib joint.
  -Skip /Drop Stitch At Neck Joint &Top Stitch.
  -Puckering at neck Rib joint.
  -Pleated at neck Rib joint.
  -Needle Cut/ hole at neck Rib joint.
  -Center Out At Main/Size Label.
  -Not Position At Care Label.
  -Size Mistake At Size Label.
  -Tension Loose At Neck Rib Joint.                           

3. Defects in Sleeve joint and Top stitch of garments:
  -Size Mistake At Sleeve.
  -Pleated at Armhole.
  -Needle Cut/ hole at sleeve joint.
  -Shape uneven at sleeve joint.
  -Skipped stitch at sleeve joint.
  -Up-Down at sleeve joint.
  -Up-Down at under Arm Length.
  -Un-Even at arm hole top Stitch.
  -Shading At Sleeve /Back/Front Part.
  -Dirty Spot At Sleeve/ Back & Front Part.
  -Oil Spot At Sleeve /Back & Front Part.
  -Bundle Mistake At Sleeve Back& Front Part.
  -Tension Loosen At Sleeve Joint /Topstitch.

4. Defects in Side Seam of garments:
  -Curve at side Seam.
  -Needle Cut/Hole At Side Seam.
  -Dirty Spot At Side Seam.
  -Oil Spot At Side Seam.
  -Broken stitch at side seam.
  -Drop/Skip stitch at side seam.
  -Up-Down at Armhole Point.
  -Uneven At Side Top Stitch.
  -Tension Loose At Side Seam.

5. Defects in Body Hem & Sleeve Hem of garments:
  -Broken stitch at body Hem.
  -Uneven At Body hem.
  -Needle Cut/Hole At Body Hem.
  -Raw Edge At Body Hem.
  -Skip/drop stitch at body Hem.
  -Dirty / Oil spot at body & sleeve Hem.
  -Tension Loose At Body/Sleeve Hem.

6. Defects in Cuff joint make & Top stitch of garments:   
  -Skip / Drop at cuff make stitch.
  -Uneven at cuff topsin/ top stitch.
  -Uneven At cuff joint.
  -Point Up-Down at cuff joint.
  -Skip/ Drop at cuff joint top Stitch.
  -Shape uneven at cuff.
  -Size mistake at cuff.
  -Pair Mistake at cuff.
  -Oil Spot At Cup.
  -Dirty Spot At Cup.
  -Tension Loose At Joint/Top stitch.

7. Defects in Collar Joint Top sine & Make of garments:
  -Drop stitch at collar make /joint/ Top stitch.
  -Up-Down at collar point.
  -Uneven at notch point.
  -Up-Down at hala point.
  -Uneven at band top stitch.
  -Uneven at collar shape.
  -Tension Loose At Collar Joint/Make/ Top stitch.
  -Drop Stitch At Band Top stitch.                                       

8. Defects in Placket Joint & Topsin (Top stitch) of garments:
  -Slanted at Placket joint.   
  -Placket is not middle on garments.
  -Up-Down at Placket notch.
  -Uneven at Placket box.
  -Displace at button.
  -Tension Loose At Placket Joint & Topstitch.
  -Dirty Spot At Placket.
  -Oil Spot At Placket.

9. Defects in Button holing and button attach of garments:
  -Half stitch at button.
  -Fals stitch at button.
  -Insiquite button.
  -Reject at button.
  -Style Mistake At Button.
  -Tension Loose At Button Stitch.
  -Spot On Button.

10. Defects in Shoulder to Shoulder Back Tape of garments:   
  -Lop uneven at back tape.
  -Not Middle at back tape top stitch.
  -Broken stitch at back tape.
  -Drop stitch at back Tape.
  -Raw edge at back Tape.
  -Spot On Back Tape.                                        

11. Others Defect Point in Garments:
  -Running shade On Fabrics.
  -Yarn Contaminated On Fabrics.
  -Crease / Dia mark On Garments.
  -Back part Front part shade.
  -Slanted at V point.
  -Raw Edge at bottom.
  -Raw edge at sleeve hem.
  -Up Down at loop.
  -Displace at GSM  Hi-Low.
  -Ties Up –Down.
  -Uncut Thread.
  -Shading at Thread.

11. PC / Trim Card Follow:
  -Bulk Production time M/B follow this PC Card.
  -Fabric Color Check.
  -Thread Color Check.
  -Care, Main & Size label Check.
  -Twill Tape Check.
  -Mobilon tape Check.

12. Machine Adjustment:
  -Bulk Production time all machine S/B Adjust.
  -Machine Adjustments is the main subject make your good Garments.
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Garments defects and production procedure...........................

PRODUCTION MANAGEMENT SYSTEMS IN TEXTILE INDUSTRY

Production management system in textile industry is very much important term. Proper production management system ensure the production quality, production time and production costs. A well skilled production management system ensures quality product according to byres requirements.  The presence, in factories, of highly intelligent, local control systems has favored the development of production management systems. Nearly all process controller producers also offer surveillance systems that centralize data relating to checks carried out on the machine and allow various levels of interaction in production management system. There is now a very wide range of production management software functions available, and new developments are emerging all the time in various areas as a result of greater contact between software designers and users in the textile sector.
These areas include:
- Production planning
- Planning of production start-up (availability, requirements in terms of human resources and machines, etc.)
- Production Management of dyeing and finishing cycles
- Plant and single machine surveillance, remote acquisition and saving of key physical parameters, log record of alarms
- Plant and machine synoptic alarms (sometimes interactive)
- Records of orders and work carried out of production
- Recipe and cycle sequence management
- Management of dyestuffs and auxiliaries warehouse
- Statistical analysis of production
- Quality control-based classifications
- Tracking of single batches, i.e., the keeping of records of the different dyeing and finishing stages so as to make it possible in the future, in the event of disputes or problems, to trace the history of a piece
- Link-ups with ERP systems, for the transmission of data relating to technical operations of interest to the accounts department.

The application of information technology to production in the textile sector is similar, in many regards, to its application in most other manufacturing sectors of textile or apparel factory.
In particular:
• Information technology is taken out of the IT centre, and distributed throughout the mill, making it possible to present/access data wherever they are needed or generated for production management;
• Purely administrative functions are supported, more and more, by out-and-out automation functions: management and processing of organizational-type data, but also technological data relating to production of factory;
• Batch processes (data processing operations carried out by the computer at the end of which one obtains: balance sheets, production plans, warehouse status, etc.) are replaced by real-time applications, which make it possible, through one of the terminals linked up with the computer, to access and update records immediately;
• There is a growing need to integrate the processing of information relating to areas that are distinct from, but connected with, one another: design, technological definition of processes, machine preparation, planning of resources, etc.

Textile companies want the adoption of IT systems in the production environment to generate a greater and greater rationalization of production management system, and to reduce errors and waste in textile industry. The requirements of a textile company, as regards its information system, can be broken down into three areas:
1. Company management: at this level, information systems are needed for the working out of production plans, the checking of results and the working out of sales and cost plans.

2. Function management: For function management system, they are required to respond to the need to determine the production plan and flow. In particular, they help in the processing of orders, converting them into processing instructions for individual departments, stages or machines. They make it possible to optimize batches on the basis of resources and technological parameters, even simulating the production chain so as to optimize production speeds and balance workloads among machines.

3. Process management: For process management system, they serve to tune the numerous technical regulation and programming procedures that are involved in the production process. In this stage, information systems make it possible to gather all the basic data needed for control and function planning activities.

Benefits of production management system
 -Integration of different areas (resource planning, designing, recipe preparation, machine programming, cost control)
 -Better customer service in terms of order status and delivery times (shorter)
 -Reduction of errors
 -Increased company flexibility
 -Greater control over the company’s overall activity
 -Reduction of stocks
 -Reduction of downtime
 -Process repeatability

Limitation of production management system
 -Modification of the modus operandi (which results in the need to standardize procedures and train staff)
 -Standardization problems (due to control systems that are often incompatible with one another)
 -Poor product customization

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AUTOMATED PROCESS CONTROL IN TEXTILE AND APPAREL INDUSTRY

Textile and garments process control technology is not as specific as vision technology; process control encompasses all textile manufacturing sectors. The process controllers relevant to textile manufacturing are basic information-electronic systems that, installed on the textile and garments machine, control certain fundamental parameters relating to the production process carried out on the machine itself. Essentially, they can be broken down into 4 categories according to the technology of the controller involved, which is itself dependent upon the type of process being controlled.

AUTOMATION IN PROCESS CONTROL SYSTEM
1.Cycle programmers: These process control system are present on many dyeing machines and they are based on the general principle of activating outputs according to inputs of the process. But their actual functioning is more specific. Those control system are pre-programmed to manage a sequential cycle of operations automatically. This facilitates programming, because the only thing that has to be done is determine the sequence of the steps in the cycle and the conditions required for the passage from one step to the next (the reaching of a certain temperature, the expiry of a set time, the arrival of a go-ahead signal, etc.). There exist two types of cycle programmer: one based on a microprocessor whose hardware and software remains the property of the supplier, and one based on a PC- or PLC-formatted architecture, which offers all the advantages of standard hardware and flexible software of automated process control.

2. PC-driven Programmable Logical Controllers (PLCs): these systems of process control are equipped to receive logical information (from switch or pushbutton contacts, limit switches, photocells, any kind of ON/OFF sensor) and to activate logical outputs (electric drives, relay contacts, etc). A controller checks continuously the status of inputs (openings/closures, presence/absence of electrical current), and according to the configuration of the inputs, activates its own outputs (activated/deactivated, ON/OFF, command presence/absence). The logical correlation between input status and the output status consequently imposed is determined when programming the system. Thus, the PLC can be regarded as a completely general purpose tool, capable of carrying out, when duly programmed by the user for proper process control, the most diverse functions. In practice, PLCs are used to resolve all those problems relating to automation and sequence management that used to be resolved using electrical systems and relay logics for process control. They feature on practically all the systems used for automated process control, in textile finishing, for operations such as washing, mercerization, dyeing, drying, calendaring, raising, pad-batching and steaming.

3. Numerical Controls of process control: these control system are electronic systems, specifically designed to control the positioning of a number of moving organs (e.g., robot axes). Using special languages, they programmed the sequences of the positions of the various axes, each of which is controlled through measurement of the position of the organ. This measurement is carried out by high precision transducers (encoders, resolvers, optical rulers), which transmit to the numerical control a number (hence the name of the system) which represents that position.

4. Special programmers: This automated process control system is developed specifically to carry out dedicated functions of textile process. These programmers are designed with and for the machine, in such a way that input and output signals and processing capacity are kept to the absolute minimum. In order to reduce costs, size and maintenance of production, they are often engineered in the form of single electronic cards. The four systems of process control described above are can be integrated with one another, and are often used together.

Benefit of automated process control
 -Better process quality
 -Reduction of errors
 -Greater production flexibility
 -Rationalization of the cycle according to scientific criteria
 -Rapid personnel training
 -Greater familiarity with production characteristics
 -Scope for integration with other company information systems
 -Repeatability of procedures
 -End quality no longer dependent upon the skill and experience of staff

Limitation of automated process control
 -Need for organizational changes
 -Difficulty personalizing the system to specific requirements
 -Difficulty interfacing with different IT products
 -Need for assistance and maintenance

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