Stationary cutter of fabric cutting is important device of garments factory. Stationary cutter means the cutter is fixed and the spreading table is movable. This cutting system is time consuming and costly too. High power supply system is required for this cutting system.
Objectives of stationary cutter:
-Understanding of the cutting process
-Cutting equipments and their operations
Stationary cutters are those cutting machines that have blades or cutting devices that remain in a fixed position. The two basic types of stationary cutters are (i) band knives and (ii) die cutters. Operators must move the fabric or lay up to the machine and engage the cutting action.
BAND KNIVES:
The band knife cutting machine contains a narrow, sharpened, endless steel band moving vertically through the layers of fabric. The fabric layers are guided by hand against the blade. An air cushion will often be provided below the fabric layers to make it easier to guide the material. The plies may be stapled together to prevent slippage. Band knives are used for precision cutting to a depth of up to 300mm. Corners, tight curves and pointed incisions are cut precisely.
Band knives have fine blades that rotate through a slot in the cutting table while cutting. The operator positions, controls, and guides the fabric block around the knife. A band knife can be used to make only lateral cuts into a spread, as the operator must propel the fabric into the rotating blade. Band knives blades are finer and narrower than reciprocating blades, which make it easier to manipulate tight curves and intricate patterns. Band knives are more accurate than vertical knives when used to cut small blocks or shave small amounts off precut blocks. Band knives are used to trim precut blocks of small or mid size pieces. They would not be used for cutting a whole spread or large pieces because of having to maneuver the block around the blade.
DIE CUTTING:
Die cutting is the most accurate means of cutting because each and every piece is cut to the exact same shape. Dies are reshaped metal outlines with one cutting edge. Die cutting involves use of a die to cut out a specific garment part or trim from a single piece or small block of fabric. The die-cutting operation involves placement of the fabric, positioning the die on the fabric, and engaging the machine to press the die into the fabric.
A die cutting machine is provided with prefabricated cutting tools, (cutting dies) having the exact shape of the garment pieces. Die cutters are used mainly for leather, coated and laminated materials and in areas where the same patterns are used over a long period, e.g., production of working clothes. The dies are expensive to make. Dies are frequently used to cut small pieces that require high accuracy, such as collars, pocket flaps, and appliqués. Leather goods are frequently die cut. Gloves with their fine detail are usually die cut as are shoes that require consistency of parts.
SERVO CUTTERS:
The bridge between computer-controlled and manual cutting is the servo-cutting system. This type of system has an overhead servo motor with adjustable speed and a suspension system that supports the knife perpendicular to the cutting table. This reduces problems with tilting the blade and in accurate cutting. The knife is mounted on a swivel arm, which is extended above the cutting table. It also has a small base plate and narrow blade guide for easier maneuvering by the operator. It can make tighter turns with less distortion in the lay. It combines vertical cutting and band knife cutting into one machine. This type of system enables the operator to cut deeper spreads with greater accuracy than with a freestanding straight knife and for a lesser investment than computerized cutting.
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