Process sequence of cutting section in apparel garments industry

Process sequence of cutting section in apparel garments industry

Store ↓ Fabric Fault Checking ↓ Relaxation ↓ Shade Checking ↓ Prepare the fabric in the fabric spreading m/c ↓ Spreading ↓ Marker attachment ↓ Cutting ↓ Numbering ↓ Bundling ↓ Panel Check (QC) ↓
Fault	←     ↔    →				OK
↓			↓ ↓ ↓
Replace Cut
↓
→     →      ←    ← ↓
Solid		←     ↔    →		Not Solid
↓ ↓ ↓			↓
			Print / Embroidery
			↓
→     →      ←    ← ↓
Checking & Counting (QC)
↓
Sewing

Store of Garments:

Garments store is the sector where all the raw material are stored which are need to make a garments. Raw fabric for cutting, which will be processed to garments by cutting, sewing, is kept here until the process starts. This fabric comes from the main factory after knitting and dyeing. Different types of fabrics like Single Jersey, Lycra, fleece, rib etc. There are three sections, Fabric Store, Garments Store, and General Store. In Fabric store all the fabric is being stored. In Garment store, all the items without fabrics that are needed to produce garment is stored. Finally, in General store, all the related things that is needed to run a factory is stored.

In fabric store, normally 250-300 ton fabric comes to store in each day. Now, around 37 ton fabrics are stored. Few days ago, this number was around 100 ton. Cutting department get fabrics from here. There is a Fabrics Requisition sheet where all the information is being written about the fabrics movement from store to cutting section.

Fabric Fault Check out before cutting:

This quality control section is very important before garments cutting. The fabric is roughly checked from dyeing section and then those are sending to garments factory for producing complete garments. Usually very small amount of fault comes from dyeing. Small hole and pin hole are the main fault get in cutting quality check. But a single pin hole in single part of garment could be the cause of rejection of garments and it is a major defect. That’s why a thoroughly checking is done before cutting. Here Fabrics are being checked before going to relaxation section of cutting. Required number of table is preserved for fault checking. Fabric fault like hole, yarn miss, dart etc are being checked. Normally 10% fabric is checked. There are two popular fabric fault checking system is exist. Ten point system and four point system. Usually four point system is very much popular for knitted fabric and ten point system is popular for woven fabric.

Relaxation of fabric for cutting

Normally Fabric came in a roll form. Before sending the fabric for cutting, it is necessary to relax the fabric. Usually fabric comes as the form of role or gathered from textile dyeing section. So the dimensional stability of fabric is relatively lower and it contain crease mark. The fabric is kept in an open place for around 12-24 hours according to fabrics type and buyer requirements. Relaxation time for lycra fabric and pique fabric is around 3 days and minimum 24 hours. For Single Jersey and Fleece fabric, standard relaxation time is 24 hours and minimum time is 12 hours. There are racks to store the fabrics for relaxation.

Shade Checking before cutting:

Shade checking is most important part in cutting section. Before spreading the fabric on the cutting table, relaxed fabric is rechecked for shade variation in time of relaxation. If the fabric is ok then it goes for cutting. If not, then that part of fabric is rejected and transferred for further reprocessing. 

Prepare the fabric in the fabric spreading m/c

The fabric is being gathered in the machine in a small lay form that will be easy to spread the fabric in the fabric cutting table. At least two men are needed to do the job.

Spreading of fabric:

Fabric is spread on the table by spreader machine. One man control the machine and around 6-10 people to adjust the fabric to its specific dimension. Number of layer varies according to the marker length and production needed. More the layer length will be, the more will be the production rate.

Marker attachment

After laying down the specific number of fabric on the cutting table the marker paper is over laid on the fabric. Then the marker paper is attached to the fabric  by some adhesive. 

Cutting

There are cutting man to cut the laid fabrics according to the marker sketch. Normally two men do this job. Generally 10-15 number of laid fabric is being cut.

Numbering

The fabric peaces are being numbered by a labeling machine to identify these peaces in future.

Bundling

All the numbered fabric is then bundled together and send it for checking.

Panel Check (QC)

Here, the fabric is being checked for any fault. There is a sticker with all the information that is needed to identify this bundle in future for further processing like, Date, Buyer, cutting no., size, bundle no, quantity, serial no., color, lot no. In checking normally Cutting no., size, serial no. are checked.

After Panel Check

If there is a fault in the fabric then it send for further processing. If there is some spot in the fabric then it will be washed and if there is hole or some thing that needed to be replaced then is send for replace cutting.

If the garment will be solid then it goes for sewing. But if some fabric peaces needed to be printed or embroidery then it goes for it. After returning from printing or embroidery the fabric is ready for sewing.  

Checking & Counting (QC)

After doing, the entire job in cutting section the fabric is checked and counted. Then, all these peaces go for sewing. Responsible people from sewing department receive the fabric from cutting department.

Sewing

Now, the peaces of fabrics are joined together to make the final product.

All Section Quality Check List of apparel garments industry

All Section Quality Check List of apparel garments industry

1. Cutting Quality Check List:

•           Pattern to Cutting Garments Measurement Check.

•           Fabric diameter Measurement Check.

•           Cutting Lay Check.

•           Fabric Roll to Roll Shade Check.

•           Fabric G.S.M Check.

•           Bundle Mistake Check.

•           Size Mistake Check.

•           Fabric Color Mistake Check.

•           Yarn contaminated Check.

•           Any Fabric Problem Check.

2. Sewing Line quality Check List:

•           Buyer Approved Sample & Measurement Sheet Check.

•           Sample Wise Input Check.

•           Buyer Approved Trims Card Check.

•           Buyer Approved Sample Wise Style Check.

•           All Machine Thread Tension Check.

•           Style Wise Print & Embroidery Placement Check.

•           All Process Measurement Check.

•           All Machine Oil Spot Check.

•           All Process S.P.I Check as Per Buyer Requirement.

•           Input Time Shading, Bundle Mistake & Size Mistake Check.

•           Buyer Approved Wise Contrast Color Check.                                                                           •           As per Buyer Requirement Wise Styling Check.

•           All Machine Stitch Tension Balance Properly.

                                                                                                                                                                      

  3. Sewing Table Quality Check List:

•           Style Wise Garments Check.

•           All Process Measurement Check..

•           Front Part, Back Part, Sleeve & Thread Shading Check.

•           S.P.I Check for All Process.

•           Print/Embroidery Placement Check.

•           Main Label, Care Label, Size Label &Care Symbol Check.

•           Size Mistake Check.

•           All Process Alter Check.

•           Any Fabric Fault /Rejection Check.

4. Finishing Quality Check List:

•           As Per Buyer Requirement Wise Iron Check..

•           Buyer Approved Sample Wise Style Check.

•           Front Part, Back part, Sleeve, Rib Thread & Contrast Color check.

•           Print/Embroidery Quality & Placement Check.

•           All process S.P.I check.

•           Oil Spot/Dirty Spot Check.

•           Main Label Care label & Care Symbol Check.

•           Any Fabric Fault & Fabric Reject Check.

•           All process Measurement Check.

•           Blister Poly & After Poly Getup Check.

•           Hang tag & Price Sticker Check.

•           Assortment Every Carton Pcs Quantity Check.

•           Buyer Requirement Wise Ctn Size, Poly Size, & garments Size Check.

5. Out Side Print & Embroidery Quality Check List:

   

•           Buyer Approved Sample or Artwork Wise Bulk Sample Print & Embroidery Design Check.

•           Size Wise Approved Pattern Placement Check.

•           As per Sample Wise Print Design, Color & Quality Check.

•           Bundle & Size Wise Print/Embroidery Check.

•           Fabric Top Side in Side Check.

•           Print / Embroidery Pattern Placement Check.

•           As Per Sample Wise Print/Embroidery Design, Thread Color Quality Check.

•           Print/Embroidery Color Wise Wash Test Check.

6. Store Quality Check List:

•           Buyer Approved Trims Card Check.

•           Buyer Approved Sample Wise Main, Size & Care Label Check.

•           Buyer Approved Sample Wise Care Symbol Check.

•           Thread Color Shading & Quality Check.

•           Buyer Wise Hang tag & Price Sticker Check.

You should read RELATED POST for more information:

Wish you good luck............................................................

Modern textile testing and quality control equipment

Modern textile testing and quality control equipment:

Quality: Quality is the attribute of the products that determines its fitness for use, or according to Japanese Standard (JIS), textile (fibre, polymer, yarn, fabric) quality is all specific properties and performance of a textile product or service that can be evaluated to determine whether a product or services satisfactorily meets the purposes of its uses. The level of quality is measured by “ inherent properties and performances which is the subjects of evaluation or the characteristic related to its phsico-mechanical or chemical properties, dimension, longevity, durability utilization or any other requirement used to define the of the product or service is known as “quality characteristics”.

Standard: It is an agreed document established mainly with respect to technical matters related directly or indirectly to an article or service. So that profit or convenience may be obtained with fairness among the person concerned.

Testing:  The way to control or the way to check or verify the nature & characteristics. Or, the way to checking or verifying.

Modern Fibre or Polymer Quality Testing Equipment:

Fibre characteristics must be classified according to a certain sequence of importance with respect to the end product and the spinning process. Moreover, such quantified characteristics must also be assessed with reference to the following

• What is the ideal value?

• What amount of variation is acceptable in the bale material?

• What amount of variation is acceptable in the final blend?

Textile fibre contains some basic characteristics. 

Following are the basic characteristics of cotton fibre

• Fiber length

• Fineness

• Strength

• Maturity

• Rigidity

• Fiber friction

• Structural features

Name Of The Machine for fibre testing and quality control	Function of the Fibre/ Polymer Quality testing machine
1.HVI (High Volume Instrument)	It’s a very popular fibre characterization and quality testing machine in USA, UK, China, Korea and other countries. It is very cause sensitive and provides perfect fibre quality testing result. 50% span length, 2.5% span length, Uniformity ratio, Mic value, Color grade, Maturity ratio, gm/tex (tenacity), SFI (Short Fibre Index) etc. Suitable for knitted yarn production.
2.AFIS (Advance Fibre Information System)	It is also popular fibre testing machine and very cause sensitive and provides perfect fibre quality testing result. 50% span length, 2.5% span length, Upper half length, Trash%, Neps, Seed coat neps both in number & weight, short fibre content, Maturity ratio, fibre strength etc. Suitable for export woven fabric production.
3.Digital Fibre Graph	It is also popular fibre quality testing equipment and used to measure 50% span length, 2.5% span length, Uniformity ratio.
4.Digital Moisture meter	It is also popular fibre quality testing equipment and used to measure Directly Moisture content % is determined.
5.Trash Selection	It is also popular fibre quality testing equipment and used to measure Trash% in raw cotton is found out.
6.Sling Hygrometer	It is also popular fibre quality testing equipment and used to measure Directly RH% is measured.
7.Precision Polarizing Microscope	Ihis type of testing machine is used for Fibre identified with digital photographs, maturity ratio.
8.Stetometer with Torsion Balance	Bundle fibre strength is measured by this testing machine.
9.Instron	This type of testing machine is rear in used. Single fibre strength is measured (research based) by this testing equipment.

Modern Yarn Quality Testing Equipment:

Yarn is a main element for textile production. Good yarn contains some characteristics. The main characteristics are strength, elongation, hairiness, uniformity, diameter etc.

Name Of The Machine for yarn testing and quality control	Function of the Yarn Quality testing machine
1.Uster Evenness Tester 4&5	This yarn quality testing equipment is used to measure U%, CV%, Imperfection (Thick place /1000m, Thin place/1000m, Neps /1000m), Irregularity index, Relative count, hairiness etc. In case of UT-5 polypropylene content in yarn is also determined recently.
2.Uster Tenso Jet	This yarn quality testing equipment is used to measure  Single yarn strength & Elongation% is determined.
3.Uster Tenso Kind	This yarn quality testing equipment is used to measure Lea strength, Breaking force, Elongation% determined.
4.Uster Tenso Rapid	This yarn quality testing equipment is used to measure Single yarn strength, Lea strength & Fabric strength, Elongation% is determined.
5.Uster Classimat	This yarn quality testing equipment is used to measure Yarn fault in category wise determined (23-27 categories).
6.Auto Cone Winder	This yarn quality testing equipment is used to measure Auto splicing, Slubs removes in running m/c.
7.Uster Auto Sorter	This yarn quality testing equipment is used to measure Rapidly Yarn count, Sliver/Roving hank etc

Modern Fabric Quality Testing Equipment:

Textile fabrics are made for various purpose, each of which has different performance needs. The chemical and physical states of textile fabric identify what will the end use of this, and ultimately whether it is reasonable for a specific use. Fabric testing makes a crucial role in gauging product quality, ensuring regulatory compliance and assessing the perfection of textile materials. It provides information about the physical or structural, chemical and performance properties of the textile. As user become more aware and more demanding of products, the number of tests required for textile fabrics has grown. As a result the testing of fabrics is increasingly varied, in constant flux and full of the unprecedented challenges of globalization. With the onset of modern types of fabrics for the garments factory and of technical textiles for functional applications, and with the growing number of invention taking place in the apparel sector, fabric testing processes have undergone tremendous changes and there is required to realize all the procedures before a testing method is involved to investigate the performance of fabrics. 

Name Of The Machine for fabric testing and quality control	Function of the Fabric Quality testing machine
1.Automatic Pick Counter	Ends/inch & Picks/inch is digitally measured.
2.Universal Titan	Fabric strength, Elongation with printed form.
3.Spectro Photometer/Data    Color	Pass/fail (quality if fabric), Recipe formulation, Grey scale value, Whiteness value, Shade% etc is determined.
4.Wascator	Shrinkage% is determined by programming.
5.Martindile Abrasion &    Pilling tester	Abrasion resistance as well as pill formation on the fabric is determined.
6.Seam Slippage Tester	Seam strength & Elongation % is determined.
7.GSM Cutter with Balance	GSM of the fabric is measured.
8.Color dispenser	Automatically stock solution is prepared according to Programming.
9.Megasol	Light fastness of the dyed fabric is determined digitally.

You should read RELATED POST for more information
Wish you good luck..............................................