Tuesday, May 24, 2011

THE SPREADING PROCESS & SPREADING MODES OF FABRIC IN A GARMENTS FACTORY




Spreading process and spreading mode is very important terms of garments manufacturing. Quality of garments depends upon the spreading process and spreading mode. Manual spreading process is slower than automatic spreading process. Quality of spreading process is depends upon operator quality in a garments.

THE SPREADING PROCESS & SPREADING MODES OF FABRIC IN A GARMENTS FACTORY

Spreading is the process of superimposing lengths of fabric on a spreading table of garments, cutting table, or specially designed surface in preparation for the cutting process. A spread or lay-up is the total amount of fabric prepared for a single marker. A spreading may consist of a single or multiple plies. The height of a lay-up or spreading is limited by fabric characteristics size of the order to be cut, cutting method, and the vertical capacity of the spreader. The number off plies in a spread may range from 1 to 300.

Spreading may be done manually or by computer-controlled machines. One person or two, depending on the width and type of fabric, type of equipment, and size of spread, may be involved with the spreading process. Two people may be used for manual spreading unless the spread is very short. One person may work each side of the table in order to keep the fabric flat, smooth, and tension-free. With automatic spreading, the equipment controls the tension, fabric placement, and rate of travel. The spreading operator monitors the process and removes fabric flaws as needed.

Objectives of spreading process:
 -Understanding the process of fabric spreading
 -Factors affecting spreading
 -Face and nap of the fabric
 THE SPREADING PROCESS
Two aspects of spreading that affect spreading efficiency are the setup and actual layout of fabric. Setup involves loading and threading fabric through the spreader and positioning the machine and related equipment. The actual process of spreading involves laying out fabric in the desired number of layers. Fabric may be spread face up, face down, or face-to-face.

SPREADING MODES
A spreading mode is the manner in which fabric plies are laid out for cutting. The spreading mode is determined by the fabric characteristics, quality standards of the firm, and available equipment. Two fabric characteristics that determine the spreading mode are the direction of fabric and the direction of the fabric nap.

Direction of Fabric Nap
A second consideration in selecting the spreading mode relates to the direction of the fabric nap. Placement of the nap may be nap-one-way (N/OW) or nap-up-and-down (N/U/D).

Asymmetric and directional fabrics must have the nap running the same direction, nap-one-way (N/O/W). This spreading mode is the most time-consuming to lay-up but it generally produces the best quality. N/O/W fabrics may be spread F/F and F/O/W. if napped fabrics are to be positioned F/F the fabric needs to be cut and the roll turned at the end of each ply so the nap will lay in the same direction on facing plies. This is suitable for directional fabrics and to pair garment parts for the sewing operation. This is sometimes referred to as pair spreading.

Symmetric, nondirectional fabrics allow flexibility for spreading. These fabrics can be spread with the nap running both up and down the spread. This spreading mode is called nap-up-and-down (N/U/D). This type of fabric may be spread face-to-face or face-one-way with the nap running up and down.

Direction of Fabric Face
The fabric face may be positioned in two ways: face-to-face (F/F) or with all plies facing-one-way (F/O/W), face up or face down. Face-to-face (F/F) spreading may be continuous as the spreader moves up and down the table. This is the fastest method of spreading, the least costly, and generally results in the lowest quality. With this method of spreading the face is up on one ply and down on the next ply as the spreader goes back and forth. Often symmetrical, non directional fabrics are spread continuously, which places alternate plies face-to-face or back-to-back. Quality is affected because the operator is only able to monitor the face of fabric half the time.

F/O/W spreads, face up or down, are more time-consuming and expensive because fabric must be cut at each end of the spread and the new end repositioned. If a rotating turntable is used to turn the fabric roll 180 degrees at the end of each ply, the fabric can be spread from both ends of the table without a wasted trip. F/O/W spreading may be done with the fabric face up or face down. When the fabric faces up, the operator is able to monitor the face for flaws and imperfections as the fabric is being unrolled. This is particularly helpful when spreading prints. Pile fabrics, corduroy and velvet, are often spread face down, other high-quality fabrics are spread face up.

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GARMENTS PRODUCTION PROCESSES OF APPAREL FACTORY


Objectives of garments production process:
  -Examine garments production strategies and concepts
  -Explore the relationship among production standards, capacity, and production planning
  -Examine factors that impact productivity and measures of productivity.

The plant and production system create the environment for executing production processes. A process is a procedure required to convert materials into a specific product or style. The type and sequence of garments production processes required for conversion is unique to each style. Use of inputs to the process (including materials, methods, machines, and skills) is determined by the expected output.

Process Analysis and Control:
Process analysis begins with examination of each style to determine its requirements for production. Style requirements are discussed at product planning meetings, determined through analysis of samples and specifications, and evaluated based on a firm’s standard operating procedures and cost constraints. Production skills, production time, equipment needed, and the anticipated volume are evaluated for each style.

The basic breakdown of operations for a style is often identified by technical designers while engineers develop detailed specifications, methods, and production standards necessary for consistently executing the processes. An operation is one of the steps in a process that must be completed to convert materials into a finished garment. An operation breakdown is a sequential list of all the operations involved in cutting, sewing, and finishing a garment, component or style.

Production Standards:
Production Standards are a means of controlling time and labor costs by establishing a reasonable time for completing each operation. They provide a basis for determining whether the actual production time and costs are acceptable. Production standards are used to plan and schedule production, analyze capacity, and serve as performance criteria for workers. Production standards provide management with a numerical base (quantitative base) for making decisions and managing plant production. A production standard reflects the ‘Normal’ time required to complete one operation or cycle using a specified method that will provide the expected quality. In comparing actual performance with a production standard, trouble spots can be identified, productivity evaluated, and adjustments can be made.

Labor Efficiency for production development:

Labor efficiency is ratio of work accomplished versus the work expected to be accomplished. The work accomplished is provided by the operator’s output sheet and the work expected to be accomplished is provided by the production standard.

Labor Performance in production field:
Combining labor efficiency with labor utilization provides the basis for the labor performance report. Labor performance can be loosely translated as labor productivity.

Performance = efficiency x utilization

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APPAREL GARMENTS PRODUCTION SYSTEMS




Apparel Garments production is the last process of textile production. Garments production is the heart of textile production. Garments production includes the production of production of finished apparel garments. An apparel garments production system is an integration of materials handling, production processes, personnel, and equipment that directs work flow and generates finished garments products. Three types of production systems commonly used to mass produce apparel are:


-Progressive bundle system
-Unit Production System
-Modular Garments Production System
-Combined garments Production System

Each system of garments production requires an appropriate management philosophy, materials handling methods, floor layout for garments spreading, and employee training. Firms may combine or adapt these systems to meet their specific garments production needs. Firms may use only one production system, a combination of systems for one product line, or different systems for different product lines in the same plant.

Objectives of garments production system:
 -Examine the characteristics of different types of apparel production systems
 -Compare and contrast the different production systems
 -Evaluate and critically compare the use of systems in different contexts
 -Summarize the benefits of the different garments production systems 

Progressive Bundle Production System:
The progressive bundle system of apparel  production is called from the bundles of garment parts that are forward sequentially from process to process. It is needed to complete a specific operation or component. For example neck join is a single process, for bundle system an operator will join neck of full bundle then it will forward to another operator.  READ MORE(.........)


Unit Production System
A unit production system is a type of line feeding that uses an overhead transporter system to forward apparel parts from work station to work station for assembly. All the components for a single garment are advanced through the production line together by means of a hanging carrier that travels along an overhead conveyor. READ MORE(...........)

Modular Garments Production System
A modular garments production system is a contained, manageable work unit that includes an empowered work team, equipment, and work to be executed. Modules frequently operate as mini-factories with teams responsible for group goals and self-management. The number of teams in a plant varies with the size and needs of the firm and product line in garments. READ MORE(..........)

Combinations of Garments Production Systems
Some firms may use the progressive bundle system for producing small parts combined with modular production for garment assembly. This reduces the investment in specialized equipment and reduces the team size needed. Some industry consultants believe that a modular system combined with a unit production system provides the most flexibility, fastest throughput, and most consistent quality. This would be particularly useful for large items such as coveralls or heavy coats. The UPS would move the garment instead of the operators. Each manufacturer needs to determine what is best for its product line and production requirements.

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