Showing posts with label Thread. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Thread. Show all posts

Friday, March 1, 2013

SEWING THREAD

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Sewing threads have to make with the properties by which it can be possible to sewn garments smoothly. It has to be designed for smooth & efficient stitching. It should contain the properties for these it will not break in the time of sewing & after complete the sewing as well as up to buyer use. The composition & the construction have to manufacture as required for the efficient smooth stitching to the proper selection of fabric, based on the seam type.


CONSTRUCTION OF THREAD

Sewing threads are made of cotton, linen, silk, rayon, or polyester or blends thereof. The properties of the fiber determine its use and application. For example, cotton is the most widely used because of its high versatility and low cost; rayon, which is much weaker, is used primarily for fancy stitch work; polyester is used where strength and water repellency are more important. 

All sewing threads are made of ply yarns. The single yarns, which may be spun, filament, or multi-component are highly twisted (plied) to form a firmer and more uniform thread than ordinary yarn. Sewing thread may be given special finishes, such as mercerizing, glace or water repellency or swelling to serve particular uses. 


THREAD SIZES

The size of spun thread had been expressed in terms of its diameter: the higher the number the finer the thread. At one time, thread had been made only from three-ply spun yarns. Therefore, a spun yarn thread of 50 three ply (50/3) had a ticket number of 50, a thread of 60 three ply (60/3) had a ticket number of 60, and so forth.. Subsequently, the number of plies in sewing thread was extended to, two, three, four and six ply. A ticket number of 50 could therefore indicate a 50 two ply (50/2), a 50 three ply (50/3), a 50 four ply (50/4), or a 50 six ply (50/6); but the thickness of the thread in each case was the same, while each ply was thinner. The greater number of ply yarns implied greater thread strength. The size of mercerized cotton sewing thread were identified by letter as well as number. The range was found from F (coarsest) to A (medium) and then from 0 to 00000 (finest). 

Identification of thread size, called ticket number, is undergoing a transition. Different kinds of yarns had different numbering designations. The Thread Institute adopted a standardized ticket numbering system based on the tex system of numbering yarn. 

The tex system is intended to give an orderliness by providing one ticket numbering system based upon metric system which is now universally accepted. Since tex is the weight in grams of a 1000-meter length and is a direct numbering system, the greater the weight the thicker the thread and therefore higher the number. Ticket numbers are based on actual tex size of the thread in the griege state, i.e. twisted, braided, or extruded before any dyeing, special processing, or finishing. The purpose of the stipulation is intended to obviate the alteration of the thread’s apparent size by any finish. 


STANDARD SEWING THREAD TEX TICKET NUMBER

1          10            35           105           300
2           12           40           120           350
3           14            45           135            380
4           16           50           150           400
5           18           60           180           450
6           21            70           210           500
7           24           80           240           Above 500, in
8           27            90           270          increment of 100
9           30

One important caution should be noted when using the tex ticket numbers. When selecting proper thread size, threads of the same fiber and type must be compared. Since the tex ticket numbering system is based on weight and since different kinds of fibers and/or types have different weights and moisture, the same tex number of threads of different fibers or types will not necessarily be of the same thickness and may therefore not be interchangeable. 


THREAD SELECTION

Selection of the appropriate kind and size of sewing thread is important. The thread should be as fine as possible, consistent with the nature of the fabric and the strength requirements of the stitching. Finer threads could be less obvious, they become hidden below the surface of the cloth, and they are less subject to abrasion than heavier threads. Also, finer threads require finer needles which cause less fabric distortion than heavier needles. Threads composed of the same kind of fibre as that of the fabric is also important because of such factors as general appearance, color fastness, finish retention, elasticity and strength. 
Wish You Good Luck..................................
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