Weft-faced Satin (Sateen) weave
It is characterized by long floats on the surface of the fabric. In basic construction, the satin weave is similar to twill weave but floats in satin fabric may cross from four to twelve yarns before interlacing with another yarn. No pronounced diagonal line is formed on the surface of the fabric because the points of intersection are spaced in such a way that no regular progression is formed from one yarn to that lying next to it. When warp yarns form the floats on the face of the fabric, the fabric is a warp-faced satin. They are usually made from filament yarns and are called SATINS. When filling yarns float on the face, the fabric is a filling-faced satin. This is called SATEEN WEAVE Satin-weave fabrics are made by allowing yarns to float over a number of yarns from the opposite direction. Interlacing are made at intervals such as over four, under one (using five harnesses); over seven, under one (eight harnesses); or over eleven, under one (twelve harnesses). Floats in satin fabrics may cross from four to twelve yarns before interlacing with another yarn. No pronounced diagonal line is formed on the surface of the fabric because the points of intersection are spaced in such a way that no regular progression is formed from one yarn to that lying next to it.When warp yarns form the floats on the face of the fabric, the fabric is a warp faced satin.
When filling yarns float on the face, the fabric is a filling faced satin. Satin-weave fabrics made from filament yarns are called satins; those from spun yarns are sateen. Most warp-faced weaves have filament yarns because filament yarns do not require a tight twist to serve as warp yarns, whereas cotton, being a staple fiber, must be given a fairly high degree of twist if it is to serve as a strong warp yarn. Therefore, sateen fabrics are usually filling faced, although some warp sateens are made.
Warp faced satin weave Weft faced satin
Satin-weave fabrics are highly decorative. They are usually made from filament yarns with high luster to produce a shiny, lustrous surface and tend to have high fabric counts. They are smooth and slippery in texture and tend to shed dirt easily. The long floats on the surface are, of course, subject to abrasion and snagging. The longer the float, the greater the likelihood of snags and pulls. Satins are often used as lining fabrics for coats and suits because they slide easily over other fabrics. The durability of satin-weave fabrics is related to the density of the weave, with closely woven, high count fabrics having good durability. Satins made from stronger fibers are, of course, more durable than those made from weaker fibers.
The following are some names given to satin fabrics.
1. Antique satin, a satin made to imitate silk satin of an earlier period, often uses slubbed filling yarns for decorative effect.
2. Peau de soie is a soft, closely woven satin with a flat, mellow luster.
3. Slipper satin is a strong, compact satin, heavy in weight. It is often used for evening shoes. 4. In crepe-backed satin, loosely twisted, lustrous warp yarns are combined with tightly twisted, creped filling yarns. The floats on the surface are created by the warp, so that the face of the fabric is chiefly made up of warp yarns with a satin appearance, whereas the back of the fabric is made up largely of tightly twisted filling yarns that produce a crepe or rougher surface texture with a flat, less shiny appearance.
• Satin weaves are lustrous because of more yarn showing on surface
• Fabric is comparatively weaker due to long floats, which represents minimum of interlacing.
• Satin weave has a distinctive reversible side
• Excellent drapability
• Easily to slip on and off the fabric i.e. the fabric is smooth to touch that’s why used as lining material also
• Ex: Satin, Sateen, etc.