Tuesday, May 24, 2011

GARMENTS SEWING MACHINE FUNDAMENTALS- PRINCIPLES OF STITCHING (MECHANIZATION PROCSS)




Sewing machine is an important part of apparel and garments manufacturing technology. Production of garments factory depends on the performance of sewing machine and principles of stitching. Principles of stitching and perfection of stitching depends on the quality of sewing machine.

Mechanization is the process of replacing human labor with machines. Mechanization of the garments sewing process encouraged mass production of apparel garments product. Garments sewing that had long been performed by hand sewing machine could be done more rapidly by garments sewing machine. By about 1900, most garments sewing processes could be performed by machine

Automation is a state of operating without external influence or control. In manufacturing of garments and apparels it is often viewed as highly desirable because it eliminates the potential for garments workers error. Automated garments sewing systems are capable of feeding themselves cut garments parts from a stack, completing multiple sewing tasks, and delivering finished parts of garments. Automated equipment for garments sewing may be cost effective for some apparel manufacturers, while the high costs of acquisition, installation, and maintenance are prohibitive to others.

Robotics is the most advanced form of automation in garments sewing operation. Robots are computerized, reprogrammable, multifunctional manipulators designed to move materials, parts, tools, or specialized devices through variable programmed motions for the performance of a variety of tasks. Flexible reprogrammability is one of the hallmarks of robotic automation. This manufacturing flexibility differentiates robotics from fixed-purpose, hard-wired automation, which has to be torn apart and reconfigured for every new application.

Garments sewing and Apparel pressing equipment may be either general or special-purpose. General-purpose garments sewing machines are manually operated by garments worker and can perform a variety of sewing operations. Special-purpose garments sewing machines are designed to perform a specific garments related or sewing related operation and more likely to be semiautomatic or automatic machine.













 





Objectives of garments sewing machine:
 -Discuss issues related to equipment selection
 -Explain mechanization and automation relative to special- and general-purpose garments sewing machines
 -Examine the basic components of garments sewing machines and work aids

GARMENTS SEWING MACHINE FUNDAMENTALS:

A basic garments sewing machine or apparel sewing head, as it is sometimes called, consists of the fundamental parts required to form a stitch, sew a seam, or perform a specific garments sewing operation. The major components of a basic garments sewing machine include a sewing casting, a machine lubrication system, a stitch-forming system, and a garments feed system. The speed at which a sewing machine can operate depends on the engineering of the garments machine’s components.

The Sewing Casting:

The sewing machine casting is the metal form that provides the exterior shape of the garments machine. Shapes vary with the bed type, the garments sewing function that is to be performed, and how piece goods are to be presented to the needle. The casting houses the internal workings, such as the gears, cams and shafts, that operate the stitching and feeding mechanisms of the sewing machine.

Bed Type:
The bed is the lower portion of the sewing machine under which the feed mechanisms and loopers are located. Sewing machines are frequently described by bed types.

Different Types of Machine Beds:


Types of Garments Sewing Machine
Sewing
Stitch Type
Features and Uses
Flat bed sewing machine (basis type)
Lockstitch sewing, Chain stitch sewing
The large working area allows a wide range of sewing application; the material can easily be guided around the needle and the presser foot. This basic type garments sewing machine used for all kinds of flat sewing operation.
Raised bed sewing machine
Lockstitch sewing, Chain stitch sewing
The bedplate is in the form of a plinth. It facilitates the assembly of pre-sewn parts and is especially suitable for the fitting of accessories and special attachments. This is the basic form for various specialized garments sewing machines such as buttonholers.
Post bed sewing machine
Lockstitch sewing, Chain stitch sewing
This type of sewing machine has an increased working height. Special sewing applications are found in the working of three-dimensional products. e.g. shoes and bags. The post makes it easier to work on tight curves and corners, to sew in sleeves and to complete large, half-assembled products.
Cylinder bed sewing machine
Lockstitch, Chain stitch
This type of garments sewing machine has an increased working height and a bed in the shape of a horizontal arm. It is especially suitable for sewing on tubular parts, such as cuffs, sleeves, and trouser legs, and also for button sewing and bar tacking.
This sewing machine is used extensively in the making of clothing from knitted fabrics.
Side bed machine
Chain stitch, Over-edge
Machines which are specialized for sewing at edges need only a small working area

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