Wednesday, May 25, 2011



 -Examine how material utilization is impacted by dimensions of markers
 -Understanding different techniques of marker making for specific order quantities

Markers are made to fit specific widths of fabric and quantities of sizes. If a marker is narrower than the fabric, the unused fabric is wasted. If a marker is wider than the specified fabric, garment parts located on the edge of the marker will not be complete. Fabric is purchased by width but often it runs wider than the required width. When fabric width is grossly inconsistent, fabrics in a lot may be grouped by width and different markers produced for each width. Using the extra width in planning markers can save significant yardage.
Markers may be produced in sections or blocks or be continuous. Blocked or Sectioned Markers contain all of the pattern pieces for one style in one or two sizes. Sections may be used separately or joined together to form an extended multisize marker. Blocked or sectioned markers are easier to visualize and handle, but they may not produce the best utilization of fabric.

Sectioned markers may be used to adjust the volume requirements for various sizes or as a remnant marker. High-volume blocks can be placed on one end of the marker and low-volume blocks placed at the other end so the fabric can be spread to correspond with the volume needed for each block. Blocking keeps garment parts for one size in close proximity, which facilitates bundling and handling. Sectioned markers are advantageous if there is an en-to-end shade variation of the fabric. The following picture shows a spread that could be used with a sectioned marker and an unequal distribution of sizes.

A stepped spread for a sectioned marker may consist of plies of varied length, spread at different heights. The most frequently used configuration for a stepped spread consists of a group of plies that are spread the full length of the marker and another group of plies beginning at the section line. Stepped spreads are used to adjust the quantity of piece goods to the number of garments to be cut from each section of the marker

Continuous markers contain all the pattern pieces for the all sizes included in a single cutting. They may be lengthy and often require more juggling of pattern pieces. Pattern pieces are grouped by size and shape of the pieces rather than by garment size. Continuous markers often have better utilization because there is more flexibility in grouping and maneuvering large pieces and small pieces. Splice marks are planned into continuous markers to avoid excessive fabric waste and incomplete pieces.

Splice marks are points in a marker where fabrics can be cut and the next piece overlapped to maintain a continuous spread. Splice marks may be one inch or several inches depending on the overlap needed to accommodate the pattern pieces in the area of the splice. The rectangular box indicates the amount of overlap needed. The lower ply should be cut at the end of the box and the new ply of fabric should be aligned with the beginning of the box. If fabric needs to be cut before there is a splice mark, the cut should be made at the last splice mark and the extra fabric used for recuts or smaller markers. Splice marks are inherent when markers are planned in blocks. Piece goods may be spliced at any point where the sections of a marker are joined together. Splices are needed when flaws are removed, a roll change is made, or a short length of fabric is used.

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